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Old 10-06-2011, 01:03 PM   #1931
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Originally Posted by mccumath View Post
I used a barrier strip from lowes, and it fit 2 wires under the screw pretty nicely.
I will have to look into that for the second one. Thanks.


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Old 10-06-2011, 02:45 PM   #1932
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Just out of curiosity, would 14gauge speaker wire be ok for inside the box? What's the difference between 14gauge speaker wire vs 14 gauge extension cord wire, other than the extension cord has a 3rd wire for ground?


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Old 10-06-2011, 03:11 PM   #1933
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Sorry for asking a dumb question or one that has already been asked (going through all 194 pages is a bit time consuming).

Will this be able to turn on the fridge when too warm using the cold plug and then turn on the heat lamp when it gets too cold using the heat side of the plug? Or would I need two controllers to do that.

The reason I ask is because living in Rhode Island, the temp difference from night to day can swing quite a bit. It can be 80s during the day and then fall to the 40s late at night. During the summer it will just need to cool and winter it would just need to warm but spring and fall can be tricky to keep temps in the mid 60s with the temp fluctuation.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:29 PM   #1934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h22lude
Sorry for asking a dumb question or one that has already been asked (going through all 194 pages is a bit time consuming).

Will this be able to turn on the fridge when too warm using the cold plug and then turn on the heat lamp when it gets too cold using the heat side of the plug? Or would I need two controllers to do that.

The reason I ask is because living in Rhode Island, the temp difference from night to day can swing quite a bit. It can be 80s during the day and then fall to the 40s late at night. During the summer it will just need to cool and winter it would just need to warm but spring and fall can be tricky to keep temps in the mid 60s with the temp fluctuation.
All you'll need is the one controller.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:30 PM   #1935
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All you'll need is the one controller.
And the diagram from the OP or is there a better one you recommend?
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:34 PM   #1936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emjay

All you'll need is the one controller.
And make sure you're buying the STC-1000 and not a single-stage knock-off!
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:43 PM   #1937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrooze

And make sure you're buying the STC-1000 and not a single-stage knock-off!
Nope I have the stc100 110v model
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:55 PM   #1938
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And the diagram from the OP or is there a better one you recommend?
The diagram the OP posted is accurate, and compact. The black line corresponds to the hot wire (usually black), blue is neutral (usually white) and green is ground. Just make sure to snap off the little tab bridging the hot and neutral sides of the outlet. (I snapped the neutral side, you may not need to somebody with more electrical experience can speak to that.)

EDIT: When I say I snapped the tab. I snapped it and ran a dedicated neutral to the wire nut. I am pretty sure you don't have to, but i had already snapped it.
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Old 10-06-2011, 06:57 PM   #1939
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It is proper snap the tab on the side THAT DOES NOT have the ground.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:04 PM   #1940
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for a sub $10 box people should look at lock cash boxes. They are metal so they can hold a good amount of weight, are big enough to have lots of room to mess around in and are cheap.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=SPM241831844


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