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Old 04-08-2010, 05:56 PM   #121
theminor
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Thanks for the replies. I guess my concern was whether most freezers go above 10 amps. I haven't picked out my freezer yet, but I'm wondering if any freezers go higher than 10. My recollection on compressor motors is that 10 amps would be about a 1 HP motor, which seems awfully high for a freezer compressor, so I doubt it is an issue. I just wanted to be sure.

But it sounds like plenty of people are using this controller on freezers with no problems, so I'll probably go for it!

Thanks again.


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Old 04-08-2010, 06:05 PM   #122
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I don't think you'll find many freezers that would go above 5 amps or so. you're house AC compressor probably only draws 10-15 amps.

Good luck


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Old 04-09-2010, 11:28 AM   #123
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I will be buying one of these soon. Thanks to the OP for the info!
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:22 PM   #124
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I know my mini fridge draws 3 amps not sure how much the heating pad draws either but I have 1 of them hooked up too for the heating. But he will send you a 110v since you are in the US and it will be 10 amps at 110v. Which I questioned myself before I bought it and then looked at amperage on the fridge and was quite surprised so I just took a chance and got 1.
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:13 PM   #125
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I purchased two of these and like the size. I have tested them to make sure they work and they do. But I just can't get my head around the F4 setting, so I'm looking for some help. Please tell me if I'm on the correct track. F1 is the temp setting you want for heating or cooling, F2 is the degree difference for the unit to shut off or turn on. F3 is the delay in minutes before the cooling or heating unit turns on. F4 setting allow from 1 to 10 but I don't know what it is used for.

any help is appreciated

thanks

tom
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:39 AM   #126
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the paper that comes with it says f4 is for sensor calibration so I'm guessing if your temp probe isn't accurate it's some sort of scaling factor. Mine was pretty accurate when I tested it with my calibrated digital thermometer in a glass of water
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:01 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillKlineVT View Post
the paper that comes with it says f4 is for sensor calibration so I'm guessing if your temp probe isn't accurate it's some sort of scaling factor. Mine was pretty accurate when I tested it with my calibrated digital thermometer in a glass of water
yes. I'd leave it alone unless you notice (with some other calibrated thermometer) that the temperature the controller is reading is off.


I'll be hacking up my fridge pretty soon, installing one of these and making it a fermentation chamber. I'll post pics of this and the keggerator soon (hppfully).

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Old 04-14-2010, 11:27 AM   #128
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BillKlineVT, Bjornbrewer - thanks for clarifying that

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Old 04-14-2010, 11:32 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petervonstubb View Post
I agree, I wouldn't submerged the probe. Just tape it to the side of the carboy with some sort of Insulation like bubble wrap. I cut up one of those cheap soft portable bag coolers they gave me for free from work. Your temp readings will be very close if not the same.
i don't understand why the probe is inside a jug of water. it looks like you are deliberately handicapping a very sensitive temp controller.
maybe you could just close it up inside an empty container. might be a bit more responsive to air temp fluctuations that way. or just hang it out in the open.
the air temp could get pretty warm or cold before the carboy water temp catches up.

i would also be concerned that it doesn't stay waterproof forever. i ruined a couple of oven probes by submerging them in my brew kettle.
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:38 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcm_rx7 View Post
The instructions that came with my controller say it's rated for 15A.
if you're concerned about running a high power device, you can use the device to switch a 30 amp(or bigger) relay that switches the outlet.


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