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Old 02-18-2010, 06:18 PM   #1
Jknapp
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Aug 2009
Seattle
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Here's what I cut out of a 16" metal duct for my windscreen/shroud.

I haven't done tests yet re: with/without shroud, but between a 2k heatstick to heat my mash/sparge water & to preheat my 1st runnings combined with this shroud, I think I used considerably less propane for my last brew..

~~~~~~

Here are results from boil tests:

NO SHROUD: 2 gallons of water @ 57.1F to rolling boil in 6 min, 51 seconds.
WITH SHROUD: 2 gallons of water @ 53.9F to rolling boil in 5 min, 30 seconds.

If someone with the ability to determine the efficiency can analyze these boil times & temps(BTU's etc), I'll add that data here as well. It is definately obvious that the shroud does keep the heat more on the pot resulting in faster boils.


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Old 02-18-2010, 06:37 PM   #2
SOB
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Looks nice...I've been thinking about doing something similar. Did you buy the 16" duct or find it? Where would I be able to buy one?


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Old 02-18-2010, 09:26 PM   #3
Jknapp
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I had the section of duct laying around at work. It was a stock edged 4' section, so I would assume this ducting can be bought in short lengths.

I'd try your local HVAC vendor - probably be able to hook you up.

It looks larger in the pic, but the gap between the pot and the edge of the duct is only about 1/2".

 
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:34 PM   #4
SOB
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Have you tried any tests yet? Curious to hear the results...
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Old 02-21-2010, 05:03 AM   #5
Cyan
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Maybe could use a little more ventilation...? Don't want it to go boom

 
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Old 02-21-2010, 06:27 AM   #6
ReeseAllen
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Probably a good idea to add some large holes near the bottom to allow fresh air to be drawn in.

 
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Old 03-01-2010, 01:26 AM   #7
Jknapp
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Aug 2009
Seattle
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Here are results from boil tests:

NO SHROUD: 2 gallons of water @ 57.1F to rolling boil in 6 min, 51 seconds.
WITH SHROUD: 2 gallons of water @ 53.9F to rolling boil in 5 min, 30 seconds.

If someone with the ability to determine the efficiency can analyze these boil times & temps(BTU's etc), I'll add that data here as well. It is definately obvious that the shroud does keep the heat more on the pot resulting in faster boils.

 
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:03 PM   #8
SOB
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Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReeseAllen View Post
Probably a good idea to add some large holes near the bottom to allow fresh air to be drawn in.
Why would fresh air need to be drawn in? The gas and air is mixing at the opening in the inlet.

As far as fumes and exhaust go that is coming out the top and has nothing to do with air being drawn into the bottom...

Am I missing something?

EDIT: as I look at it again I can see how the exhaust might get trapped in the shroud but the fumes would only be carbon monoxide and some hydrocarbons. Correct me if I'm wrong but this wouldnt make the thing go "boom."
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:27 PM   #9
Cyan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOB View Post
Why would fresh air need to be drawn in? The gas and air is mixing at the opening in the inlet.

As far as fumes and exhaust go that is coming out the top and has nothing to do with air being drawn into the bottom...

Am I missing something?

EDIT: as I look at it again I can see how the exhaust might get trapped in the shroud but the fumes would only be carbon monoxide and some hydrocarbons. Correct me if I'm wrong but this wouldnt make the thing go "boom."
"Sweet and sour like a tangerine. Fresh like a box of Krispy Kremes."

I may have been exaggerating a little with the whole "boom" thing. However, can't argue with safety. It may be unrelated, but check this thread out:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/warn...se-read-41422/

 
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Old 03-01-2010, 04:46 PM   #10
Jknapp
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Aug 2009
Seattle
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That keggle warning has to do with trapped water in the bottom skirt of the kettle. It boils & builds pressure (since there are no drip holes to let out the water/steam) and it blew up. Totally different thing.

There is plenty of air entering the shroud. See the cutout around the air/fuel mixer - there is probably 8 square inches of inlet for air there. Also, I boil on an angled driveway - and wedge up the low side so the BK is level. This allows a lot more air in.

Anyone able to run the numbers on BTU's after I did the boil tests?



 
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