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Old 02-14-2010, 01:16 AM   #1
TheAleMaster
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I plan on wiring a control panel to control a 4500w kettle. I also have a 15 amp outlet for my pump, although I do not need any kind of control for it (maybe just a switch). I tried to piece together a diagram based on numerous posts I have read here (apologies for the crudeness of the diagram). I was curious if some of you electrical pros could take a look and provide comments/suggestions. I also have a few questions for you.



1. If I wanted to completely kill the element while still letting the PID monitor temperature, where should the kill switch be located?

2. Where would the neutral wire go for the element? Or is it not necessary?

3. I have fuses before the PID. Should I put them before the SSRs on the lines that do not go to the PID?

4. The locking plugs/receptacles, what are the advantages/disadvantages of those? I notice a lot of guys around here use them and was curious as to the reason.

5. For the actual box itself, metal or plastic?

Thanks in advance.



 
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:25 AM   #2
The Pol
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Feb 2007
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You dont need a switch, you have 2 SSRs....?

No neutral on 240VAC

I think fusing the PID is all you really need, unless you are trying to protect the elements?

Locking receptacles are good if you are worried about them coming unplugged. FWIW I almost need a pry bar to get my 4 prong plug out of the 50A receptacle as it is.

Box material is up to you... both are suitable. I prefered plastic (insulator)



 
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:58 AM   #3
CodeRage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAleMaster View Post
I plan on wiring a control panel to control a 4500w kettle. I also have a 15 amp outlet for my pump, although I do not need any kind of control for it (maybe just a switch). I tried to piece together a diagram based on numerous posts I have read here (apologies for the crudeness of the diagram). I was curious if some of you electrical pros could take a look and provide comments/suggestions. I also have a few questions for you.

1. If I wanted to completely kill the element while still letting the PID monitor temperature, where should the kill switch be located?
The best solution would be a 2 pole contactor switching L1 and L2 before it goes into the SSR. contactor

2. Where would the neutral wire go for the element? Or is it not necessary?
Not needed

3. I have fuses before the PID. Should I put them before the SSRs on the lines that do not go to the PID?
Nah

4. The locking plugs/receptacles, what are the advantages/disadvantages of those? I notice a lot of guys around here use them and was curious as to the reason.
Nice to know that the plug is locked into place. Just in case the cord gets tugged on or what not. Nothing mandatory though

5. For the actual box itself, metal or plastic?
no plastic. Should use metal or fiberglass. Should there be a fire, fiberglass is self extinguishing, not sure about the plastic. I prefer metal. Make sure it is good and grounded so if a wire comes loose and hits it, it will pop the breaker. But fiberglass is just as acceptable.

Thanks in advance.
No problem, sorry I didn't get back to your PM though. I saw it at work and was going to respond later but forgot .
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:01 AM   #4
The Pol
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Do you need a switch if you have 2 SSRs? Can the PID be the switch?


 
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:06 AM   #5
CodeRage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Do you need a switch if you have 2 SSRs? Can the PID be the switch?
it can, I feel better with a mechanical disconnect over a piece of silicone.
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Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:16 AM   #6
egurney
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Apr 2008
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CodeRage,
you said
Quote:
5. For the actual box itself, metal or plastic?
no plastic, metal of fiberglass.
Did you mean?
No plastic. Metal or Fiberglass is good.

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:17 AM   #7
CodeRage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egurney View Post
CodeRage,
you said

Did you mean?
No plastic. Metal or Fiberglass is good.
Ha, yeah
Plastic Baaaaaaad
Metal & Fiberglass Gooooooood
__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:18 AM   #8
The Pol
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My whole electric rig is wood, I am screwed

Dont they make junction boxes, NEMA boxes, out of plastic??

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:20 AM   #9
CodeRage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
My whole electric rig is wood, I am screwed

Dont they make junction boxes, NEMA boxes, out of plastic??
Lol, just keep a fire extinguisher handy. Remember, kill power, then spray.

Edit. They do, but when you say plastic that means it could be anything; a radio shack project box or your scooby doo lunch box.
__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:21 AM   #10
The Pol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage View Post
Lol, just keep a fire extinguisher handy. Remember, kill power, then spray.
I will get dry chem.



 
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