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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Electrian dad says GCFI is pointless?
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:10 PM   #21
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I want to meet your dad. That man sounds cool. I told my girlfriend the other day. After my rig is built, I want to start researching an electric car build.

1980's volkswagon GTI all electric plug in.
I was pretty much the coolest kid in high school when I would drive it to school for my Auto class days.

the thing only had a range of about 100km. It also weighed a ton! the back seat and truck were filled with batteries. Regular car batteries i might add....we didnt have any of that fancy Lithium Ion **** around 1998.

Top speed was 60km...but it sure got there fast! the Torque on motors are nuts.


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Old 02-09-2010, 09:10 PM   #22
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If your dad is anything like my dad, he may have just left some info out to mess with your head. Maybe there is something you dont know in the mix. If you are powering this to a recepticle branched from a bathroom or any garage outlet with more than a single outlet it is already protected with GFCI. Maybe there is already a GFCI breaker in the panel, or you are powering from a spa like sub panel that is already protected? Or maybe he just doenst like you very much?


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Old 02-09-2010, 09:15 PM   #23
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Maybe he bought one of those dinky little Gerber life insurance policies when you were a baby, and he's looking to score a quick $10,000.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:15 PM   #24
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It will be wired in the basement directly to the panel from my understanding.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:17 PM   #25
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I have a problem with this statement.... feel free to call me out on it...

If you can't wire your system safely / correctly enough to rule out ANY such failures due to loose wires, spillage etc etc....then maybe you shouldn't be venturing into wiring your own system?
Because we're dealing with large amounts of heat, and large amounts of liquid. All it takes is forgetting to fill a mash tun/hlt, and your heating unit shorts out.

You don't have to wire it incorrectly for something to go wrong.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:19 PM   #26
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Because we're dealing with large amounts of heat, and large amounts of liquid. All it takes is forgetting to fill a mash tun/hlt, and your heating unit shorts out.

You don't have to wire it incorrectly for something to go wrong.
you mean turning it on before water is in it?....humm...seems highly unlikely... but I see your point. Pretty sure that wouldn't kill me though...it would just horribly damage my element.

Anyway, I see all your points and I definitly wouldn't want a novice to come to these boards, dream up a big e-rig, stumble across this debate and decide he doesn't need one. That could end horribly.

Just found the whole thing odd seeing as I believe my dad to be some electric guru.

but back on track....6000w good for a BK right?

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Old 02-09-2010, 09:45 PM   #27
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I agree with coderage. I know where my wires are. I know they are wired correctly. I would feel plenty safe without it. In the end though I put a GFCI in because ultimately my roomate and girlfriend and other people may be screwing around near my stuff.
And all it takes is a tiny nick in a ground wire and some corrosion for someone with a little water nearby to become the ground path of every amp in the system. Why even take that chance with yourself? Why do people need to be macho and say "well, it's only because I have a kid nearby or a roomate"? Not only will it protect you IF something unforeseen happens in the system, but it will also warn you of said faults before you are a victim.

The cost is negligible for the peace of mind.

You're not talking about a 60W light bulb. You're talking about 30+ amps of continuous peak current, which is PLENTY to kill you.

Oh, and I have seen enough misconceptions of electricity in this thread to warn a few of you to not do your own electrical work...

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Old 02-09-2010, 09:47 PM   #28
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The electrical part intrigues me...but needless or not, I still plan on using one.
I'd rather not need it and have it than need it and not have it.


But as for the wattage...not sure I caught the volume you were trying to boil, but from what I've read (I think...been reading a lot recently) 3500w will boil a 5G batch (like 7G) in like 30 minutes from sparge temps but for 10G (13G) you need around 5500w

I know 1500w will heat 9G cold tap water for an HLT to 170 in about 1/1.5 hours
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:49 PM   #29
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I simply don't see how a correctly wired system would subcomb to a spillage electricution? those wires should all be covered up safely.
So every connection and wire is sealed in an impervious, heat and liquid resistant shielding. And no corrosion, or manufacturing defect, or accident at the brew site could ever possibly happen.

If you're willing to be your life and that of those around you on that premise... go right ahead and do so...

You apparently know the risks and are willing to take that bet.

Good luck to you sir.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:03 PM   #30
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So every connection and wire is sealed in an impervious, heat and liquid resistant shielding. And no corrosion, or manufacturing defect, or accident at the brew site could ever possibly happen.

If you're willing to be your life and that of those around you on that premise... go right ahead and do so...

You apparently know the risks and are willing to take that bet.

Good luck to you sir.
Do have electrical expertise? What is your job? I not looking for a pissing contest. I just wonder. All of my line voltage is in a sealed nema box. The only connections that could be exposed to water is my control panel. It only has 12v dc very low amperage draw. The 12v power supply 2.5 amps is in the sealed nema box. My elements are covered with drilled out plumbing caps and potted with jbweld.

It has nothing to do with being macho. It has everything to do with knowledge of the system I am working on.

Edit: the wires going to the elements are SO cable. So they are rated for outdoor use. Getting a nick in one of those would be hard. I have seen heavy equipment run over those on job sites.


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