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Old 02-10-2010, 01:50 AM   #21
The Pol
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Oh, I dont care about sanitizing anything before the boil

 
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Oh, I dont care about sanitizing anything before the boil
I agree but I do it out of habit. I just don't like to see those rotting little flakes flowing out of the tube after I worked so hard to get them all out after the previous brew. You have to admit as the King of Bling it looks pretty cool also.
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:00 PM   #23
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I agree but I do it out of habit. I just don't like to see those rotting little flakes flowing out of the tube after I worked so hard to get them all out after the previous brew. You have to admit as the King of Bling it looks pretty cool also.
It looks very sweet

 
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
I agree but I do it out of habit. I just don't like to see those rotting little flakes flowing out of the tube after I worked so hard to get them all out after the previous brew. You have to admit as the King of Bling it looks pretty cool also.
I've noticed the same but I just run hot water before I brew and the flakes come flowing out.
Cool set up.

Pat

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 04:06 PM   #25
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Okay....could you use 1" triclover fittings for this? ID of the fittings is 7/8" and a 5500w LD element is <1". As long as the element weren't touching (scorching/burnout risk)....I assume you'd get a more efficient machine with quicker response......

If not using triclovers....I'm assuming this could be done with pipe fittings as well....it might be even better due to insulation provided by the thicker wall of the pipe....

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:47 PM   #26
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Okay....could you use 1" triclover fittings for this? ID of the fittings is 7/8" and a 5500w LD element is <1". As long as the element weren't touching (scorching/burnout risk)....I assume you'd get a more efficient machine with quicker response......

If not using triclovers....I'm assuming this could be done with pipe fittings as well....it might be even better due to insulation provided by the thicker wall of the pipe....
See post #14......I don't think the thickness of the pipe will insulate much as Stainless Steel is a fair conductor of heat. The pipe at 1" is kind of narrow because most of these elements are about 7/8" wide. Don't forget that the element contracts and expands with temperature so if it does touch the side it could wear through after a period of time because standard Stainless is not polished smooth on the inside. It may take a while but having it touch the side is not recommended.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:01 AM   #27
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Yeah, I guess that confirms my suspicions. 1.5" isn't too bad, though. I wonder, what are the dimensions of the tees KLG stainless sells? I guessed around 4" long and ~3" on the branch....I've got a decent rims with tees modeled in sketchup, I'm just concerned if my measurements are accurate.

 
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:21 PM   #28
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Who thinks I can use a sight glass for the middle section and get away with it? I think it would be sweet to use the RIMS to monitor the recircing wort

 
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:54 PM   #29
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Who thinks I can use a sight glass for the middle section and get away with it? I think it would be sweet to use the RIMS to monitor the recircing wort
I do... I Really do
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:01 PM   #30
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I think that is a really cool idea Steve. I see no problem with it. I now have a triclover sight glass on the output of the RIMS for flow monitoring. The seals in my triclover sight glass are teflon and the glass is pyrex so it can easily handle the temperature. I think even Buna-N can handle mash temperatures to 180* F.
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