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Old 05-20-2010, 03:20 PM   #101
Mirilis
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I have to get me one of these

 
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:08 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwest450 View Post
What's fluctuates more than you like? What are your setpoints? I've been taping rancos to kegs for a good long time and they work great. Submerging isn't a great idea. How does the temp of a small glass of water translate to 5 gallons of beer?
+1 Submerging the probe will only increase the lag time and cause larger temperature swings. I tried it and it did not work well at all for me. Lots of people do it that way, but I will never understand why. You can adjust the differential on most of the digital controllers I've seen to get just about anything you could want. The air temp will fluctuate obviously, but the beer/wort with its large thermal mass certainly won't budge much at all and that's the important thing.

 
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:35 PM   #103
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If I want to ferment out of a sanke can't I just tape the probe to the outside and cover with bubblewrap like jamil does? Or does the heat not conduct as well in stainless as in glass?

 
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:46 PM   #104
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It conducts better through stainless than glass. I do that exact thing to measure my vessel's temperature.

 
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:14 AM   #105
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i am on the outside of a ale pale and i think i have a 1 degree difference between the outside and inside.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:38 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
It conducts better through stainless than glass. I do that exact thing to measure my vessel's temperature.
Have you measured the inside temp to check for variance?

 
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Old 02-26-2011, 05:29 PM   #107
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First, I'm sold on this controller. FWIW, I jury-rigged a johnson controller to sorta manually do a two-state. Sort of. Here. For $30, I might scrap what I have already done. Still, anyone with a single stage controller (i.e., ranco or johnson) might consider this, especially if they already have the parts sitting around, as I did. It's ghetto compared to the object of this thread, so no flames please.
Resurrecting this thread. Passedpawn, do you still use the analog with the circuit in your link? I'm not quite understanding how it works without switching the jumpers in the controller itself.

 
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:16 PM   #108
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I = v / r

 
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:50 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn View Post
Hong Kong is in China.
Late to the party.
I realize this being I spent a month each time in Hong Kong as well deep into China.
You would be shocked to see a good looking item in Hong Kong on how it was made deep in China under a rusted out Quonset hut by child labor.
This before the 1997 takeover of Hong Kong by China and again after the takeover.

 
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:57 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelale View Post
Resurrecting this thread. Passedpawn, do you still use the analog with the circuit in your link? I'm not quite understanding how it works without switching the jumpers in the controller itself.
Yes, I still use it, although it doesn't often get cold enough in florida to put a heater in the chest freezer (although it's all outside).

Inside the ranco is a relay. The relay has a common, to which you connect power. Then, it's arm switches between two contacts. It doesn't just "open-circuit".

So, you want to wire each of those 2 contacts to separate outlets. You only want to plug in one device (either the freezer power OR a heater) and it will just work. If you think about it you will probably figure it out.

It would work if you pluged in both devices, but there needs to be a gap in temperature where nothing happens (hysteresis) so you don't get short-cycling of the compressor and heater. It might work, but I'm not sure; I think the johnson had 3 or 5 degrees hysteresis, but maybe that's not correct.
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