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Old 02-04-2010, 04:50 PM   #1
HomeBrewFoSho
 
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Just wondering if anyone has welded their handle holes closed and ground down the inner lip of the keg (where the top was cut off) to give extra room for your boil? I have a lincoln weldpak 175 MIG with gas and was thinking of trying it but I don't want to screw up the keg. (I'm not a great welder yet) But I would be willing to try if others have had success. I do have extra kegs if I screw it up but I'm not going to bother if it's not worth it. Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Greg

 
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:52 PM   #2
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I think you'd be the first. If you cut the top out right you'll have matching alloy to patch the holes. Do you plan to CIP?

 
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:56 PM   #3
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Kegs are kinda heavy, it's nice to have the handles to grab onto. How big are your batches? If you're running out of space, try some Fermcap to limit foaming; you might be able to squeeze out a 13- or 14-gallon boil without having to make big modifications to the keg.
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:12 PM   #4
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I'd say you could lift the keg "empty" by just wrapping fingers around the rolled top. I'm sure this could be done but don't forget the weap holes
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird View Post
Kegs are kinda heavy, it's nice to have the handles to grab onto. How big are your batches? If you're running out of space, try some Fermcap to limit foaming; you might be able to squeeze out a 13- or 14-gallon boil without having to make big modifications to the keg.

Do not take advice from this man on boiling wort

 
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
I'd say you could lift the keg "empty" by just wrapping fingers around the rolled top. I'm sure this could be done but don't forget the weap holes
Yes these kegs will be on a brew stand with "tippy dumps" so there really shouldn't be any lifting besides empty on occasion. I just didn't know how far these kegs could be pushed for batch size if the handle holes were welded shut. (extra couple gallons? the more the merrier!) If I use stainless wire and argon am I going to risk having rusty welds? That is what I'm kind of affraid of. I'm using weldless fitting for everything else because of all the welding concerns on this board seeing as I'm definately not a professional.

 
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Old 02-04-2010, 09:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babalu87 View Post
Do not take advice from this man on boiling wort
The proper answer is "do not take advice from this man, period!"

You know, though, if those ****holes had just invested $5 in a bottle of Fermcap...
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:08 PM   #8
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Be sure to practice on some other stainless if you're not a good welder as you stated, so that you're confident you'll be happy with the results.

 
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:13 PM   #9
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I'm not a welder, and I don't use a keggle, but I seem to remember reading on here somewhere that if you remove the top all the way (meaning no lip) the keg doesn't hold its shape as well. I forget which thread that was in though, sorry.
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:36 PM   #10
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I think the OP is referring to the part your lid would sit on when tops are cut off, he's proposing to cut that flush to the sides but retain the rolled top and fill in the holes for the handles.
Kegs are fairly thick ss and it should be strong. with the rolled top and bottom.

 
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