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Old 02-09-2010, 03:16 PM   #11
Bigscience
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePig View Post
Don't weld the SS coil to the bulkhead. You'll want to be able to remove the coil for deep cleaning, modification, etc... at a later date. I've taken mine out a few times and modified it to optimize length.

Take it to the welder and have him weld the tube to a matching tri clamp ferrule. Then have him roll that SS as tight as he can and use tri's (even 1/2" sabco tri's) to weld into the bulkhead. You should have enough room to make it fit if the welder can get the coil into a 6-7" roll.
While I think this is a great solution for a 1/2 barrel keg, since the triclamps will be between the coil and the wall, how am I supposed to get even 1 hand in there to open and close it? The diameter of the keg is only 9.25" (think cornie). If I could pull it off with the top one, there's no way to reach the bottom one.

The idea of this chamber was to have as small a volume of water as possible so the temps could be changed quickly. This however creates some challenges however.



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Originally Posted by diatonic View Post
Yep, that half coupling will work just fine. I bought one last week for my new HLT. I am considering replacing the black rubber seal that came with the element with a high-temp silicone o-ring though.

Thanks! Time for another order of shiny goodness.

 
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:37 PM   #12
lustreking
 
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Why bother going through the sides at all, just run them straight up and out the top?
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:33 PM   #13
Bigscience
 
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Originally Posted by lustreking View Post
Why bother going through the sides at all, just run them straight up and out the top?
I want the HEX to be mounted to the stand and totally CIP (clean in place). While I could flush a coil that comes in and out the top, there'd be residual fluid left in it. I'd need to remove and invert to drain. Yet another thing to break down.

 
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:33 PM   #14
kickflip_mj
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a like this?





 
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:40 PM   #15
Bigscience
 
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Originally Posted by kickflip_mj View Post
a like this?

Much like that. What is your volume and length/diameter of the coil and total height? How do you like using it?

 
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:47 PM   #16
kickflip_mj
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its pretty much a full corny, thats 25' 1/2 copper, 1500 watt element. i really like it and the temp doesnt fluctuate, i can keep a steady 152. i only fill to the top of the coiled part.
i like this design but personally i would rather have a temp controlled lauter tun and just have 3 tanks instead of 4. other than that i love having another fun peice of equipment

hers an older shot of my stand



 
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:50 PM   #17
kickflip_mj
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make note though, to save time i pre heat my water in my boil kettle to 152, also recently i discovered that my efficiency sucks and that is because i did not take in consideration of the temps in my mash tun just the wort coming out of the exchange. i may need to bump the temp up.

 
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:43 PM   #18
P-Lay
 
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Would two 1/4" coils work? It seems they would be easier to bend to your radius. You could use an adapter to go from (1) 1/2" to (2) 1/4" on both the inlet and outlet. More surface area for better heat exchange too... right?
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Why kill when you can OVERKILL!
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Have you considered drinking more?

 
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Old 02-10-2010, 12:33 AM   #19
lustreking
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigscience View Post
I want the HEX to be mounted to the stand and totally CIP (clean in place). While I could flush a coil that comes in and out the top, there'd be residual fluid left in it. I'd need to remove and invert to drain. Yet another thing to break down.
Makes perfect sense! Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:00 PM   #20
kickflip_mj
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so i thought i would say on my first design i had the lid still intact and i was able to get the coil in.. but be warned it was hard as hell. i did this so i could close it up and it would not lose alot of heat. i took the top off because i couldn't tighten the compression fitting

 
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