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Old 01-29-2010, 04:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
It's already been said but I would think you want a DPDT mechanical kill switch for the "real" off off.
I agree. I like some indicator of true off. Call me old school but I used a definate purpose contactor for my HLT. It "clunks" on and "clunks" off and hums a bit when its on.

I haven't used them. Do they not make a 2-pole SSR?

 
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Old 01-29-2010, 05:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
I haven't used them. Do they not make a 2-pole SSR?
Yep but much more expensive than two SSRs.

 
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
I agree. I like some indicator of true off. Call me old school but I used a definate purpose contactor for my HLT. It "clunks" on and "clunks" off and hums a bit when its on.
I am also using a definite purpose contactor as well as a SSR. Turn switch on to activate the DP contactor, which feeds one leg to the SSR and one to the receptacle. The leg that goes to the SSR gets switched by the PID. That way, I know that if the switch is off, the element is NOT energized at ALL. Also have a lighted switch to know when it's switched on (as if the clunk isn't enough), as well as a separate indicator to show when the element is cycling on and off by the PID. Sounds like a lot, but it's actually pretty simple. Contactors are cheap ($14 at Auber for 40A), and are widely used in industrial controls.

Cheers!
MrH

 
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Do they not make a 2-pole SSR?
= Dual SSR or DSSR.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
It's already been said but I would think you want a DPDT mechanical kill switch for the "real" off off.
This was available at my HD. Mixed in with all the 120V stuff. Even the guy working the aisle didn't know it was there. If you are looking for it, print this pic and take it with you. (Click on the pic below for a much bigger hi-rez version!)

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Reason: added link to bigger one

 
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:00 PM   #16
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when wiring up 2 ssr's for a 240 element do you run 2 wires from the controller (brewtroller in my case) terminals to the ssr or run them in series? (the 2 wire method seems logical, but i've been wrong before...)

 
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobrewer View Post
when wiring up 2 ssr's for a 240 element do you run 2 wires from the controller (brewtroller in my case) terminals to the ssr or run them in series? (the 2 wire method seems logical, but i've been wrong before...)
Run them in parallel. a set of wires from the BCS to the first SSR and then another set of wires from the first to the second SSR.
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Old 01-31-2010, 05:24 PM   #18
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thanks for the confirmation. (probably should have said 2 sets of wires in my post to make it clearer).

 
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn View Post
This was available at my HD. Mixed in with all the 120V stuff. Even the guy working the aisle didn't know it was there. If you are looking for it, print this pic and take it with you. (Click on the pic below for a much bigger hi-rez version!)

That's the one I used in my setup. The switch is a little bigger/thicker than your standard 15A wall switch, but it still fits under the cheesy all-weather switch covers that I'm using. Happy so far.

 
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:19 PM   #20
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So someone on this thread mentioned that they were using 25A SSRs for a 5500W heating element? This is also a question I had? I have enough 25A SSRs, and 5500W is actually less than 25A but not in the 70% range? If I am using a heat sync, what is the down side to doing this? Does it just impact the life of these SSRs, or is there a danger concern?

 
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