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Old 01-27-2010, 06:26 PM   #1
Homercidal
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So I'm considering doing a RIMS system, to help maintain a constant temp in my MLT, and to also add recirculation. I don't want to put a ton of money into this, but before I decide yes or no, I'd like some opinions on design and cost.

Firstly, I have a rectangular cooler MLT. I also have access to 220V outlet.

I'm thinking an electric heating element in a pipe sort of thing, with thermostat and controller. I batch sparge.

How does that sound, and what would it cost? I am not really interested in a programmable controller, just one that I can set the temp and off she goes.
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:07 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homercidal View Post
So I'm considering doing a RIMS system, to help maintain a constant temp in my MLT, and to also add recirculation. I don't want to put a ton of money into this, but before I decide yes or no, I'd like some opinions on design and cost.

Firstly, I have a rectangular cooler MLT. I also have access to 220V outlet.

I'm thinking an electric heating element in a pipe sort of thing, with thermostat and controller. I batch sparge.

How does that sound, and what would it cost? I am not really interested in a programmable controller, just one that I can set the temp and off she goes.
It depends on your metallurgy. Don't forget you'll need a pump.

SS tubing will run you around $75. Element another $10-25 depending. Controller and thermocouple, another $50 or so. Pump will be about $125. Then there's the electrical (breakers, wire, box, and so forth).

So I'd guess around $300-350 or so, a little less if use copper.

 
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:11 PM   #3
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You can get the element, PID, and SSRs probably around 100 bucks.

As far as the chamber goes. I built mine out of copper for around 80 bucks.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/poli...e-2-hrs-58428/

Copper prices have come down since then so it may be cheaper.
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:12 PM   #4
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I priced copper for mine, it was more expensive than SS FWIW

 
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:53 PM   #5
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Buy the stainless steel pipe from Murray Equipment. The fastest shipping in the world and very reasonable rates. You will need
1 of these - http://www.murrayequipment.com/itemi...4N&Part=11/2X8
2 of these - http://www.murrayequipment.com/itemi...=S4T&Part=11/2
4 of these - http://www.murrayequipment.com/itemi...&Part=11/2X1/2
1 of these - http://www.murrayequipment.com/itemi...B&Part=1/2X1/4
1 of these or comparable element - http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images...ment-02463.jpg
1 of these - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...b0f02e16339f93
1 of these - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=107
1 of these - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...products_id=30
and finally one of these - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...products_id=77

I just built this exact heat stick for my rims system. It is bad ass...works amazing. I bought the march pump, blinchman 20 gallon kettle, and therminator also. I have only used my system once. We just got it done a couple days ago.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:01 PM   #6
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Read post #1 of the "RIMS for Dummies" thread http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:09 PM   #7
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Sawdust....didn't mean to steal any thunder. Just thought the links would help him. Your system works awesome. The wiring and programming of the PID was a little tricky, but all in all the project was fairly straight forward. I got to know the guy at Auber Instruments pretty well. Thanks again for all your help with my cart and best of luck to everyone if they build one....it's certainly worth the effort.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckeyebrewer View Post
Sawdust....didn't mean to steal any thunder. Just thought the links would help him. Your system works awesome. The wiring and programming of the PID was a little tricky, but all in all the project was fairly straight forward. I got to know the guy at Auber Instruments pretty well. Thanks again for all your help with my cart and best of luck to everyone if they build one....it's certainly worth the effort.
No biggy.....You just beat me to it. I have to learn to be faster next time.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:12 PM   #9
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I spoke to a guy at work about this and he has several small Thermolators that are shot that I could steal parts from. They most likely either have bad pumps or heaters. I could get the control components though.

They are all wired for 480V. I have not taken any apart to see what I can salvage, but I'm hoping at least to use the display portion. I have no idea how hard it would be to make it useful for 220V heaters.

Interestingly, the whole system very much resembles the RIMS systems I've seen here, right down to having a pipe with the heating elements inside it.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homercidal View Post
I spoke to a guy at work about this and he has several small Thermolators that are shot that I could steal parts from. They most likely either have bad pumps or heaters. I could get the control components though.

They are all wired for 480V. I have not taken any apart to see what I can salvage, but I'm hoping at least to use the display portion. I have no idea how hard it would be to make it useful for 220V heaters.

Interestingly, the whole system very much resembles the RIMS systems I've seen here, right down to having a pipe with the heating elements inside it.
Looking at the microTemp Thermolator manual it looks like all of the controls are 120V. So you should be able to use them, if you can figure out how.

Here is the manual.
http://www.conairnet.com/product/doc.../microTemp.pdf

Page 26- It looks like you can change how the element is wired so it supports 120V split or 240V single phase(It doesn't show you how). You would have to measure the resistance of each element to calculate the wattage.

The pump is 3 phase as well but they are 1/2 or 1/3 HP. You can get a 110V to 3Ph 1/2 HP drive like this one. Not sure how it would integrate to the controls.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/..._VAC)/GS1-10P5
Would be a fun thing to play with.


The solenoid coils are 110V too.

You could get quite a few cool parts from those buggers.
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