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Old 01-21-2010, 06:05 PM   #1
Jan 2010
Cincinnat, OH
Posts: 542
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I've been looking and looking and haven't been able to find a picture of someone who might have done this. I'm new to All Grain so maybe it's not the best idea anyway. Here's what I'm thinking. I've got two round 10 gallon Rubbermaid drink coolers. One is for the MLT the other for the HLT.

I was thinking about installing a sparge coil in the top of the cooler lid that I could attach a hose through to on the top side of the lid. That way, once I get my rates set, I can have the MLT lid on and just sort of "set it and forget it." I would of course monitor it and such, but this would help keep heat in and debris and other stuff out.

I just bought a $40 spinning stainless steel sparge arm, but thought, if I could make one of these that's actually attached to the lid of the MLT that would work quite well.

Anyone done this before? I'm sure someone has, I just haven't seen a picture to help me get an idea of how to proceed. I was thinking a coil of copper/stainless tubing with tiny holes drilled all around that then is attached to a weldless type setup through the lid of the MLT. I could then attach tubing from my HLT to the top and let it go.

Any ideas/suggestions/photos/etc. would be great. Thanks and BTW this is my first post! Glad to be here. Seem to have found a great community with lots of helpful folks.

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Old 01-25-2010, 06:24 AM   #2
Jan 2010
Cincinnat, OH
Posts: 542
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Bump. No input? Anything?

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Old 01-25-2010, 06:51 AM   #3
The Pol
Feb 2007
Posts: 11,454
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Boom, git r dun

1/2" ID Loc Line at www.mcmastercarr.com

Cheap, simple... works like a charm for fly sparging. You dont need to sprinkle the water, that isnt necessary

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Old 01-25-2010, 03:53 PM   #4
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Bobby_M's Avatar
Aug 2006
Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 23,379
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The other method that is equally agreeable is the old grappling hook shaped manifold. A center shaft of either copper or CPVC goes through a hole in the middle of the lid, hits a tee and then goes out in 4 directions with some elbows at the ends facing upwards. Height of the whole assembly can be adjusted by sliding the center rod up and down held by a clamp on the top of the lid. You'd want the bottom horizontals to be on or slightly above the grainbed.
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:56 PM   #5
flyerwire's Avatar
Aug 2009
Springfield, PA
Posts: 539
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i'm actually going to be going through my first run of just a 1/2" ID silicone tubing with holes in it coiled around / half floating on the water above the grain bed as used in the sabco system. just drilled a hole through the middle of the cooler lid slightly smaller then OD of the tubing and slid it through for a snug fit with a QD on the end

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Old 05-24-2010, 08:44 AM   #6
DeafSmith's Avatar
Jan 2009
Richardson, TX
Posts: 1,448
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Has anyone tried to use a piece of Plexiglas (acrylic plastic) for the lid during fly sparging? You could mash using the regular cooler lid for best heat retention, then, for sparging, replace it with the Plexiglas which would have attached the sparge arm, LocLine, or whatever. This would allow you to monitor the liquid level without losing heat by removing the lid. The big problem I can see is that you would get condensation on the inside of the Plexiglas because it would be colder than the inside of the cooler. Maybe this could be prevented by laying a thick towel over the Plexiglas for insulation and only pull the towel aside briefly to check on the level. Plexiglas should take the heat up to about 180 deg. F without softening, but if more heat tolerance is needed you could use Lexan (polycarbonate), though it is more expensive.

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Old 05-24-2010, 11:55 AM   #7
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Sep 2008
Coraopolis, PA (Near Pittsburgh)
Posts: 912
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I installed one on my 5 gallon MLT and it works, but you have to watch that you do not put more in than your taking out. My lid leaked when I walked away for a few minutes to do another task, so be careful if you choose to go that route.

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