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Old 04-05-2010, 05:27 PM   #21
BrewBeemer
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Any automotive parts store likea Kragen's will have crimp-on connectors, "blues" would be for 16-18 gauge wire with a tight
fit on 14 gauge wires. Always use stranded wire not solid with
"Stake-On" crimp connectors unless you crimp plus solder with
solid wire, this as a "get out of a problem case only".
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage View Post
no problem. I am going to have to make an amendment to this one day soon. A control relay should be used. I didn't realize it at the time but the internal relay on this guy is only rated for 3 Amps.... I thought it was 7 like the other... It seems to fair okay though. A lot of fridges already have a relay like this installed but trying to find it and wiring to it may be a little difficult for the average brewer.
I love the way this controller looks and I am going to be using it to control my Keezer. What relay would you suggest and how would you connect it the controller? Also how would this affect the setting parameters?

This is a great thread. Thanks!

Edit:
Would the SYL-2342, be a better choice? It is able to handle 7A-10A depending on the voltage. It can be seen at (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=1)

Reason: found another controller

 
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:15 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by evandy View Post
No reason you couldn't. The 2 relays are only rated to 3A so you would need to use an external relay on them, but they each have an alarm-on-temp and and alarm-off-temp, so you could use that to, say, keep a refrigerator at a given temp, and then PID control a brew-belt or fermwrap. Only one PID control, but most cooling solutions can't take the pulsed power anyways, so it's not a huge deal.
I've looked in the literature for the Auber PID and I don't see it listing the Alarm rating for voltage. Maybe they are the same as the relay voltage?

I like the idea of using a PID to control a chest freezer - good for summer and then in the winter time, since it's in my unheated garage, let a small heater keep it to temp.

Cooling and heating would be nice in the shoulder seasons - as here in Montana you can get pretty cold at night, but be warm in the day.

So...
with that said, given the amp rating for the alarm output (I couldn't find a spec) would I be better off to try to put the freezer on the alarm output and the heater on the on/off relay? OR, can would it just be wise to put it all on an SSR?
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Old 07-04-2010, 10:40 PM   #24
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Thank you for the right up. I actually just did this with my tet612!

 
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Old 07-04-2010, 11:44 PM   #25
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Thanks for the write up. I will be sure to use this in the near future.

 
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:10 AM   #26
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Great thread!

It would be great to get the details/pictures on how to wire to a SSR.

 
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:57 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage View Post
no problem. I am going to have to make an amendment to this one day soon. A control relay should be used. I didn't realize it at the time but the internal relay on this guy is only rated for 3 Amps...
It can behave as a heater, you would have to use one of the alarm out puts though. Set the alarm to the coldest temp you want and when it gets to that point the output will turn on and fire up the heater. for these, the heater would have to be rated less than 360W if you are going to directly drive it.
Without going off topic on Jason's great write up i'm a big fan of using blue 16-18 gauge eye vs fork crimps if I can as they can't be pulled off a terminal screw. I went cheap using parts I already had collected, a digital Johnson triggers a Mars 32382 timer preventing compressor short cycling as well triggers a SSR. Mars 32391 collection of .5 to 8 minute delays also be used. This in keeping the Johnson control happy without having compressor starting in rush current hammering it. http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com...ac/Page17.html Wiring in a PID makes for a neat system I must add, the added cost is why I went with parts I already have.


 
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Old 07-11-2010, 05:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTHarrington View Post
with that said, given the amp rating for the alarm output (I couldn't find a spec) would I be better off to try to put the freezer on the alarm output and the heater on the on/off relay? OR, can would it just be wise to put it all on an SSR?
I use the PID output to directly control the relatively low wattage heater I use, then the cooling is done through the alarm controlling an SSR. It's a small pain when you are changing temp. You have to change the Setpoint and the Alarm Low and Alarm High each time. It works great though and holds my temp when it's cold or hot out.
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:27 PM   #29
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Rick your in a rather mild climate mostly warm to hot year round, i'd be surprised you need a heater at all.

 
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:08 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewBeemer View Post
Rick your in a rather mild climate mostly warm to hot year round, i'd be surprised you need a heater at all.
We do love the mild climate here, but it get's chilly at night in the winter. If I'm trying to hold 65-68 and it's low 40s in the brewery/mancave/shop it needs a bit of heat. My mat is 25W, so it's not going to be enough heat for a ferm chamber where it gets 'cold' at night. This year, with the current weather, we could easily just leave the carboy out and the wort will average mid 60s.
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