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Old 01-09-2010, 02:28 PM   #1
tomroeder's Avatar
Jan 2010
Danville, IN
Posts: 109
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Hello all....I am experimenting with my brew stand right now, and I am having second thoughts on my decision to run temp. controlled gas valves. I am still only an extract brewer, and have never all grain brewed before, so I am at a dis-advantage here.

I had always intended on going to all-grain, but wanted to get the basics down first, which I think was a good decision. Once I did some research on the net, which has been very plentiful thanks to you guys, I knew I didn't want to mash in a plastic cooler, that if I was going to go all grain, it was all stainless or nothing. So here I am.

Ok so here is my gas valves are regular old honeywell on/off standing pilot valves with some watlow controllers bought off of ebay. I just know from experience from running my temp. controlled turkey fryer to brew in, to control the boil, the easiest way to do that once I was at boil, was to leave the thermostat on max and just control the gas pressure to keep a low flame to achieve a nice low rolling boil. I am afraid for the boil I am just going to be fighting the controllers and messing with the main valve to adjust flow to keep a nice boil going, versus on/off ever two minutes and subsequently a less than ideal boil. As for the mash, I think that temp control may be convenient, but I don't know, so I am turning to you guys! Let me know what you guys think! BTW, I am running a two sanke setup, two 23 tip nat gas burners with all but 11 tips plugged off.

Thanks in advance, you guys are a huge help!!!!!

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Old 01-09-2010, 03:09 PM   #2
Sawdustguy's Avatar
Mar 2009
Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,708
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I think there are advantages to having you honeywell valve and PID control your boil. Most use the PID to set a percentage of full output to maintain the type of boil they want to achieve.

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Old 01-09-2010, 03:43 PM   #3
Senior Member
Dec 2006
Turner, Oregon, Oregon most of the time now
Posts: 2,305
Liked 54 Times on 47 Posts

The quick solution would be another valve and solenoid bypass down stream of the Honeywell valve. While BK is heating to boil solenoid would be open and the fire would be at high level, then when boil temperature is reached you shut off solenoid and other valve reduces fire to maintain boil. You could get automatic control through your controller that would energize bypass solenoid up to 210-212 degrees, then shut solenoid valve to go to boil mode, Honeywell valve control would be by toggle switch. You would set Honeywell valve for pre boil firing rate with bypass open and then set other valve to boil fire level when bypass is closed.

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