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Old 02-03-2010, 05:07 AM   #51
HarkinBanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post
i just bought a HWD 2000W 120V element for a heat stick to aid in the boil of my gas stovetop. it should be ready tuesday for a brew day.

I'm an extract brewer at the moment, is there any way to test this stick for scorching before using it in a batch? are there any physical identifiers associated with scorching? residue on the heat stick? etc?
I use two of these elements in my CB20 system, no scorching, no problems, go for it.

 
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:23 AM   #52
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used it yesterday for steeping and boil, and WOW this thing is awesome! didn't notice any burnt stuff on the element. boiled the wort better by itself than the gas range burner did. simply amazing!!

 
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:04 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
Hey CR, slightly off topic: how is the element attached to the kettle? I was thinking about having a 1" NPT nut welded on, but yours doesn't quite look like that.

Thanks,

-Joe
Older thread, but if you're interested in some step-by-step instructions on using these 5500W ULWD elements in a weldless setup see what I put together here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

Hope it helps!

For what it's worth I've also never had any issues with scorching using these 5500W elements.

Kal


 
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:27 PM   #54
EarthBound
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Excellent work so far on your website! It really helps! Thank you!
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:18 AM   #55
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CR: So, the conclusion here is that HD elements are no problem?

 
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:25 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHP View Post
CR: So, the conclusion here is that HD elements are no problem?
None what so ever.
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Old 05-04-2011, 01:35 PM   #57
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One reason to use ULWD elements (the curvy one in the first post of this thread) that hasn't been mentioned in this thread is that they won't break if fired up "dry" (not immersed in water).

When a regular element (like the straight silver coloured one in the first post of this thread) is fired up "dry" the element will pop fairly quickly (usually before you notice your mistake!) as there is no water to dissipate the heat. While nobody means to fire up an element by mistake, mistakes do happen. Using ULWD elements provides you with a little bit of insurance against these human errors.

Popping an element is about the last thing you want given that you've likely already milled your grain and have everything ready to go.

Kal

 
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:02 AM   #58
flagoss
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How do you control the element to only 80% of its power ??

 
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flagoss View Post
How do you control the element to only 80% of its power ??
You use something to control it. There are many ways to do this. A PID with an SSR or a pulse-width-modulator (PWM) are two popular methods.

I suggest you spend some time reading in the Electric Brewing sub-forum here since your question is off-topic.

Kal

 
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