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Old 01-19-2010, 08:31 PM   #21
CodeRage
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Have got some Ed's Pale Ale a week into fermenting The mash didn't go well (low temps) but You should still be able to detect any scorching if there is any. I may pull a sample tonight or tomorrow when I transfer to a secondary.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage View Post
Have got some Ed's Pale Ale a week into fermenting The mash didn't go well (low temps) but You should still be able to detect any scorching if there is any. I may pull a sample tonight or tomorrow when I transfer to a secondary.
So, there was nothing noticeable in the BK huh? Nice work sir.

 
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:43 PM   #23
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Question:
I am stuck with 110 VAC. Last night I ran tests on my prototype RIMS. I used a 1500 ULWD element in my RIMS and an aditional 1500 watt element (on another circuit) to bring the temp of 4 gallons of water up. After I removed the second heat stick the temperature steadily fell.

The ULWD element couldnt provide enough heat to offset the heat loss in the system. I am using a Blichmann MT with no lid on, no insulation on my RIMS, 8'' or so of thick walled silicon tubing, ambient temp was 68.

Well I realized I made a $20 mistake, so I am going to switch out the element. Should I go with a 1500 LWD element or HD element?

I am looking forward to seeing your results on the caramelization.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimWeber View Post
Question:
Well I realized I made a $20 mistake, so I am going to switch out the element. Should I go with a 1500 LWD element or HD element?
An HD won't heat your kettle any faster than the ULWD. And, the jury is still out on carmelization with HD elements. It's looking like the mythbusters are about to conclude there is no carmelization. Go with the HD if you like the plating and/or the form factor better than the much longer ULWD.

I sorta wish there WAS carmelization from the HD elements. I'd figure out a way to make the elements removeable and use the HD element for scottish ales. Cool.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:16 PM   #25
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Sorry off topic!

I am using it in my RIMS to control my MT temp. Propane for my kettle.

Could someone recommend an element to use on 110VAC? I am using an ULWD element, if I use a different density element will it add more heat? My thoughts are yes, since it will heat the moving liquid faster. Or could I use an element rated for 220VAC, but then only supply 110VAC?
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimWeber View Post
Sorry off topic!

I am using it in my RIMS to control my MT temp. Propane for my kettle.

Could someone recommend an element to use on 110VAC if I a different density element will not add more heat? Could I use an element rated for 220VAC but then only supply 110VAC?
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html#tiny

Have a look at 120-1500-ELD or 120-1500-LD. They are 1500 watt 120 volt elements. I use the low density version in my RIMS.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:57 PM   #27
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Sawdustguy
I purchased the 120-1500-ELD Element, which is not working.

If I use a 120-1500-LD do you think that will provide enough heat?
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:13 PM   #28
CodeRage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimWeber View Post
Sawdustguy
I purchased the 120-1500-ELD Element, which is not working.

If I use a 120-1500-LD do you think that will provide enough heat?
No, the change in Watt Density doesnt affect how much power you are putting into the wort. It's the same amount of power over a different surface area.

You have 2 choices, insulate better or add more power. From what I've read it takes about 2 to 3kW to get 5 gal to maintain a boil.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:23 PM   #29
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Hey CR, slightly off topic: how is the element attached to the kettle? I was thinking about having a 1" NPT nut welded on, but yours doesn't quite look like that.

Thanks,

-Joe
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:26 PM   #30
CodeRage
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Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
Hey CR, slightly off topic: how is the element attached to the kettle? I was thinking about having a 1" NPT nut welded on, but yours doesn't quite look like that.

Thanks,

-Joe
No problem.
I have a 1" NPT stainless nut and silicone o-ring from bargainfittings.com. It works well and doesn't leak. I believe that in the near future I am going to replace all of my weldless fittings with silver soldered couplers.
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