Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Soldering Stainless steel
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:27 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Nice handy work! That will likely solder up real nice and strong. Looks to me like you solved the "tool" mystery. Thanks for not keeping it a secret...that was lame huh?
I read other threads too. You don't have to be rude where you don't think it wont be noticed.

I made the thread too try and help others out. I just haven't given up "my" way of doing it. I did try and help and it quickly got lost, by people thinking I am not being part of the crowd. That's fine.

What's the saying.....Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, but teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Something like that right?



Edit: Sorry, I know this is off topic. But I have been waiting for this to come out about me on this subject.

I apologize to Bargainfittings for messing up the topic.



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Old 01-28-2010, 04:32 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by Brewmoor View Post
Very nice. I am going to use that method my next go around. That looks fantastic. I brazed my fittings in. If I would have had gap like that, my welds would have been much better.

I have an idea. Tell me if you think this makes any sense:

What if you did that in reverse? Pull the pointed coupling through from the outside. Then when you solder the fitting, you create a bit of a bowl for the solder to sit in. It might serve two purposes.

1. It might make the final solder/weld look nicer. Nowhere for the solder to spread out to.

2. For those worried about sanitary issues from the gap. It would put the smooth cone shape on the inside of the kettle. Making it easier to clean and might hold less debris.

I don't really care much for the sanitary issue. It will boil out anyway. But if you plan to polish your kegs or just like nice looking work. The puddle would look good sitting in that indented bowl.

Anyway. Nice work. That looks awesome!
Yes, you can pull the coupling through the outside to the inside. No problem. If it was done this way I would weld it on the inside, but I would still solder it from the outside. With the soldering of couplers I don't think there is much issue with sanitary. The solder wicks into the inside of the joint sealing it off.


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Old 01-28-2010, 04:47 AM   #83
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That is what I was thinking. So if you were brazing it, would you do it from the outside as well? I used silver brazing rod on my fittings. I would probably go that route again.
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:51 AM   #84
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GreenMonti
I think you may be my arch nemesis,is that the right word LOL
I`ve been certified for 30+years and never once thought of doin it at home
till i started brewing now i want to weld and get a lathe in the basement ,this sux.
i should be retiring.
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:52 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by Brewmoor View Post
That is what I was thinking. So if you were brazing it, would you do it from the outside as well? I used silver brazing rod on my fittings. I would probably go that route again.

Now, I am not a braze expert but, yes I would do the work from the outside. "IF" I wanted the silver braze to make its way in, to seal off any little cracks, I would apply some heat to the coupler on the inside to melt the braze and make if flow inward. I hope that makes sense.
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:56 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by Hardtack View Post
GreenMonti
I think you may be my arch nemesis,is that the right word LOL
I`ve been certified for 30+years and never once thought of doin it at home
till i started brewing now i want to weld and get a lathe in the basement ,this sux.
i should be retiring.

That's funny. I have mucked this thread up enough. PM sent.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:56 AM   #87
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I soldered a nipple to my new keggle today! it went pretty good my reamer did not like the SS cleaned everything up used stay clean for the flux and normal plumbing solder. finished up and cleaned the area filled with water and it had a pin hole leak so i took my pin torch, and re liquefied the solder with more flux and it doesnt leak and actually looks decent i will try and post pics tommorrow.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:49 PM   #88
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You guys rock. I love that tool and unfortunately, I think I shall be trying it out too, but I will probably pull to the inside and fill the gap on the outside. Looks like a much stronger joint that simply sticking the coupler in a hole.

Now are there any concerns with aluminum? My kettle is a turkey fryer.
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:58 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
If unsure contact the manufacturer for that information.
I contacted Muggy Weld and his reply said that the stuff I have contains Cadmium, so don't use it. He asked about the materials and application, so I might hear back if they have any products suitable.

No matter, as silver solder would be fine if I have to buy more stuff. The nice thing about the stuff I have is that it can solder aluminum and Zinc Die Cast. Not sure what will work with a turkey fryer.
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Old 02-07-2010, 06:29 PM   #90
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Great thread, I'm going to have to try this on some scrap pieces I have laying around.


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