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Old 01-27-2010, 11:18 PM   #71
Skins_Brew
 
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I guess its technically a 'coupling' but this is what we are referring to....



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Old 01-27-2010, 11:27 PM   #72
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The correct terminology is coupling. Coupler is used a lot though and is understood.

I have a step bit that goes up to 1 1/8" so I just drilled out to fit the coupling.




 
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:22 AM   #73
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I was hesitant about replying to this thread ,but i have something that might help.
I know you`ve seen the thread on "The Tool"

Well I don`t have machine shop capabilities at home so...
I took a 1/2in. coupling and on a bench grinder sharpened it to a point.


A 1in. coupling I cleaned the threads out and kind of rounded off with a dremmel tool. A piece of 5/8 all thread and a couple flat washers and made this.



I drilled a 7/8 hole in the keg ,put the tapered coupling inside ,the 1in. coupling on the outside and (after coating everything with 3 in 1 oil pulled the coupling through the hole.
Then switched out for the new coupling and pulled it through the hole.

I ended up with this. should be real easy to solder.
of course i clean every thing with denatured alcohol.



Disclaimer : The 1in. coupling was galvanized,and the keg was a test piece ,I will find a stainless 1in. coupling before i do the final.

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Old 01-28-2010, 03:30 AM   #74
wilserbrewer
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Nice handy work! That will likely solder up real nice and strong. Looks to me like you solved the "tool" mystery. Thanks for not keeping it a secret...that was lame huh?

 
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:43 AM   #75
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So maybe I'm missing something but why don't more people do this for keggle builds? I realize it dosen't have the strength of a TIG weld but is it really that much of a draw back. I figure I can do this myself and save the money and headache of having someone weld keggle valves for me.

 
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:45 AM   #76
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I didn`t clean the fittings for this run , but i`m quite impressed the fit is so tight you cannot move it and it`s perfectly square.

 
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Old 01-28-2010, 03:49 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scut_Monkey View Post
So maybe I'm missing something but why don't more people do this for keggle builds? I realize it dosen't have the strength of a TIG weld but is it really that much of a draw back. I figure I can do this myself and save the money and headache of having someone weld keggle valves for me.
I do plan on welding mine, just after seeing it , i thought it could be soldered easily .

 
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:09 AM   #78
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Very nice. I am going to use that method my next go around. That looks fantastic. I brazed my fittings in. If I would have had gap like that, my welds would have been much better.

I have an idea. Tell me if you think this makes any sense:

What if you did that in reverse? Pull the pointed coupling through from the outside. Then when you solder the fitting, you create a bit of a bowl for the solder to sit in. It might serve two purposes.

1. It might make the final solder/weld look nicer. Nowhere for the solder to spread out to.

2. For those worried about sanitary issues from the gap. It would put the smooth cone shape on the inside of the kettle. Making it easier to clean and might hold less debris.

I don't really care much for the sanitary issue. It will boil out anyway. But if you plan to polish your kegs or just like nice looking work. The puddle would look good sitting in that indented bowl.

Anyway. Nice work. That looks awesome!
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:18 AM   #79
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did I say I love BACON!!!!

um try it and tell us!!!
I just thought of this a couple hour ago!

sorry I`ve been drinking.

Reason: beer

 
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:20 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardtack View Post
I was hesitant about replying to this thread ,but i have something that might help.
I know you`ve seen the thread on "The Tool"

Well I don`t have machine shop capabilities at home so...
I took a 1/2in. coupling and on a bench grinder sharpened it to a point.


A 1in. coupling I cleaned the threads out and kind of rounded off with a dremmel tool. A piece of 5/8 all thread and a couple flat washers and made this.



I drilled a 7/8 hole in the keg ,put the tapered coupling inside ,the 1in. coupling on the outside and (after coating everything with 3 in 1 oil pulled the coupling through the hole.
Then switched out for the new coupling and pulled it through the hole.

I ended up with this. should be real easy to solder.
of course i clean every thing with denatured alcohol.



Disclaimer : The 1in. coupling was galvanized,and the keg was a test piece ,I will find a stainless 1in. coupling before i do the final.
Very nice work!!. Well done. The only issue I have with your work is the use of 3 in 1 oil and the outer coupler used as the receiver. The halo carbons will contaminate the surface just as bad as carbon steel. My suggestion is to clean the surface very well with acetone before you do the final fitting of the coupler intended for use. I like acetone cause it is more robust in cleaning power then denatured alcohol. Also, prep the area prior to pulling the coupler through and your all good to go for the weld or solder.

As to the fit.....Now you see why I do it. Again nice work.



 
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