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Old 02-20-2012, 07:14 PM   #781
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What gauge solder are you guys finding works the best?
1/8 inch or 1/16 ?
Does it make much difference?
Are you planning on coiling it around couplers or using it as standard soldering, such as feeding the solder to the heat? I've never tried the thin solder in a coil, but I imagine it would work very similar to the thick solder, possibly even better because more surface area to heat. However, it may be a little harder to control if feeding it to heat, because it would be consumed to fast you'd really have to move. So, basically, I use the thicker solder because that's what I bought, and it's what most everyone else uses.


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Old 02-20-2012, 08:02 PM   #782
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I planned on wrapping it around couplers, coiling it under lock nuts - basically not feeding it to the heat.
I noticed the kits come with a really thin gauge, but when buying the solder separately it seems to be much more common in the 1/8 size


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Old 02-20-2012, 11:18 PM   #783
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Originally Posted by Swagman View Post
I don't know about resident genius/guru

1500 watt iron will = 13 AMP iron don't think so


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150 - 250 or so was used for auto body repair (before everything was plastic...).

That is a big soldering iron.

Solder is softer than steel so the connection is not as "strong" but it also has more give so it should be durable enough.

A reason to go with brazing or silver solder is that they are higher temperature materials. Plumbers solder melts at around 350 degrees so it should be OK but if it ever gets direct head from a big burner or gets boiled dry it might fail.

Of course the flip side is you will have to use a torch to do the high temp solders/ brazing.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:22 PM   #784
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I'd say go for it, you can always buy more solder if you run out. My 1lb solder roll and 1 pint flux was about $40. I went with Orchard Supply lead free 440 degree solder and Mcmaster.com stainless flux.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:37 AM   #785
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Originally Posted by noiz2
Plumbers solder melts at around 350 degrees so it should be OK but if it ever gets direct head from a big burner or gets boiled dry it might fail.
Almost 80 pages and no one's had this issue yet. Although, one nice thing is nothing will leak if it fails from burning a dry kettle. Buried in here somewhere, someone either jumped on a fitting or dropped a keg right on it and the solder held strong. This is an effective method and it's hard to mess up. Soldering FTW!
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #786
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Didn't say it would fail just that it could be an issue to be aware of. As long as it's not a pressure vessel it is pretty hard to get a surface that has gallons of water in contact with it to get much over boiling so generally not an issue. With some of the burners on high though you do get flames licking around the sides and then it would be possible for the fitting to get directly heated.

I was just pointing out possible issues since few posting on this thread seemed to know much about the differences between solder, silver solder, and brazing.

Solder is not used generally for structural purposes where silver solder and brazing are.

But as you point out nobody has had problems so...

It's certainly simpler to do.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:12 AM   #787
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Had a couple extra rolls of solder. What should I do with these bad boys?

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Old 02-24-2012, 01:54 AM   #788
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You should decide how much you want per roll and sell them. ;0)
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:18 AM   #789
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I'm afraid to ask how much for the Stay Brite 8
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:37 AM   #790
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Had a couple extra rolls of solder. What should I do with these bad boys?
Wow! I could use a couple of those. I'm running low on Stay-Brite #8.


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