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Old 12-15-2011, 12:09 AM   #681
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Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll have to think about how to hammer it out without mucking up my kettle.

Thanks for the idea.


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Old 12-15-2011, 02:33 AM   #682
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Originally Posted by nate456789

Very nice. I am getting ready to build another E Keggle. I want to use this Pull thru method. Pulling into the keg. I Haven't decided if I will TIG or do the solder. My current one is Tigged but the inner seam is not very nice or clean. The weld on the outside looks great tho.
That is why I was thinking about using this pull method to give a nice clean seam on the inside.
Do you have any pictures of the inside of the keg? What method or tool size did you use to make your dimple?
Thanks.
I use a greenlee hydraulic punch to make the dimple...not something everyone has lying around I'm sure. I think I have seen an alternate tool that does the same job earlier.

Took a few tries but I finally got a decent shot of the inside:


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Old 12-15-2011, 03:08 AM   #683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo

I use a greenlee hydraulic punch to make the dimple...not something everyone has lying around I'm sure. I think I have seen an alternate tool that does the same job earlier.

Took a few tries but I finally got a decent shot of the inside:

<img src="http://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40664"/>
Looks great. I hope I can get mine to look like that.
Thanks for the picture.
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:10 AM   #684
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Originally Posted by nate456789

Looks great. I hope I can get mine to look like that.
Thanks for the picture.
No problem. I'm sure you can do it. The right solder and flux and a little patience and practice and you will be surprised how easy and quick it is.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:23 PM   #685
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Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
Hammer the ridge flat in two spots opposite each other so the false bottom will slide past?

Edit: Put a backer behind the metal so you don't deform the hell out of your kettle.

Maybe need to use a flat bar or something to extend out to allow you to hammer it flat.
More I think about it - I don't think I could hammer it out cleanly.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:28 PM   #686
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No problem. I'm sure you can do it. The right solder and flux and a little patience and practice and you will be surprised how easy and quick it is.
Did you use a Greenlee punch kit like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-735BB.../dp/B001QIJP9C
Or is it a different tool? Guess I don't see how this tool would dimple the side of the keg.

Thanks
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:55 PM   #687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate456789

Did you use a Greenlee punch kit like this?
Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-735BB-Knockout-2-Inch-Conduit/dp/B001QIJP9C
Or is it a different tool? Guess I don't see how this tool would dimple the side of the keg.

Thanks
That is the tool except my kit is to 3" and has a hydraulic driver.

I drilled a hole and used the 1in punch(male cutting part) and die(female part) to make the hole in the keg. Then I flipped the 1in die over and pulled that into a 1-1/2in die to create the dimple. Hope that makes sense.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:13 PM   #688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
That is the tool except my kit is to 3" and has a hydraulic driver.

I drilled a hole and used the 1in punch(male cutting part) and die(female part) to make the hole in the keg. Then I flipped the 1in die over and pulled that into a 1-1/2in die to create the dimple. Hope that makes sense.
That makes sense. What sizes did you use for your 1/2 coupling for your ball valve?
How many holes are these good for since you are using them on stainless instead of regular metal?

I may have to invest in a set of these.
Thanks for the info
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:21 PM   #689
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Originally Posted by nate456789 View Post
That makes sense. What sizes did you use for your 1/2 coupling for your ball valve?
How many holes are these good for since you are using them on stainless instead of regular metal?

I may have to invest in a set of these.
Thanks for the info
For the 1/2in fittings, I probably used a 3/4 and 1-1/4 inch combination. It seems if you seperate by two sizes it creates a nice dimple without the risk of actually punching through (happened once).

I think my kit is older than me and it has punched plenty of stainless electrical enclosures much thicker than kegs or kettles. All my Greenlee tools seem to last forever.

There are some cheaper options:
Knockout Punch Kit - Knockout Punches at Harbor Freight Tools
Hydraulic Punch Driver w/ 5 Hydraulic Punches & Dies

You get what you pay for but these may be ok for limited use?
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:29 PM   #690
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Originally Posted by iijakii View Post
Wondering if you guys can give me some advice on the best way to do this.

So I was quite dumb when ordering my false bottom from Jaybird and totally forgot about the lip at the top of my kettle, so I didn't get a hinge put in it. As you can see the FB just barely can't fit in.

So I was thinking I'd cut a slit in the lip so I can slide it through. But if you look on my pot, cutting that slit would leave me with an exterior hole as well. Would I be able to solder that shut? I don't really have much experience with soldering, so I'm not sure how I'd get the solder to stay in slit and make a seal. Is there something I could put on the backside the solder wouldn't adhere to, then remove it once it's solidified? I have a friend whom has a MIG welder, but buying one of these kits would be cheaper than purchasing some stainless core wire and I think his welds are probably a bit ugly, too

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...3130830000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...3130744000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/mya...2271488000.jpg
Talk nice to Jaybird and see if he would be willing to take the FB back and hinge it for you for a reasonable cost. You will eventually want take it back out, if you manage to get it in there and solder or weld it, you will be stuck.


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