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Old 11-22-2011, 07:40 PM   #651
wyzazz
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Originally Posted by ikonis View Post
Quick question. I've got this silver soldering thing down, but am wondering if it'd be a good or bad idea to solder in a half coupling in the side of a pinlock keg.

I use them for pressure fermenting. I'd like to add thermowells to them.

Under normal circumstances, it would never go over 30psi in the keg.

I'm just not sure if the silver soldering can hold the pressure.
My pressure tank (on my home water system) cuts on @ 30PSI and off at 45PSI with soldered copper pipe in there, if you are only going up to 30PSI then I imagine it would hold just fine. If you Spundig valve gets stuck though, you may be in for a pressurized shower, or a fermentation chamber full of beer.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

 
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:44 PM   #652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyzazz

My pressure tank (on my home water system) cuts on @ 30PSI and off at 45PSI with soldered copper pipe in there, if you are only going up to 30PSI then I imagine it would hold just fine. If you Spundig valve gets stuck though, you may be in for a pressurized shower, or a fermentation chamber full of beer.
Heh. That's why I said normal circumstances. Normally, my ferments aren't even near 30psi.

Thanks for the input! Now I just need to grow the balls to cut into my perfectly good pinlocks.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:06 AM   #653
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Don't put a hole in your keg. Put it in the lid. You can always replace the lid.

 
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:08 AM   #654
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Not sure how well that would work with a thermowell as deep as the keg.... you know, getting the lid out.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:32 AM   #655
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Not sure how well that would work with a thermowell as deep as the keg.... you know, getting the lid out.
It sounds like you should consult the cure for a short hose thread.

It looks like if you offset the thermowell on the lid you could go pretty deep. I bet 10-12 inches is very doable. Maybe more.

 
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:29 AM   #656
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I saw somewhere in this encyclopedia of a thread that someone preferred to butt solder the 1" coupling for a heating element. What about the curve of the vessel? Two of the sides of the coupling won't be making very good contact with the vessel. Is this and issue? While the whole pull through "tool" technique looks rock solid, I really really fear cracking a brand new SS pot.
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:41 AM   #657
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Well, I used the Harris Stay-Brite 8 solder, which I believe is supposed to be better for filling gaps. However, with the 1" nut, there's not a whole lot of a gap anyway - my first one was done with regular Harris Stay-Brite, and it's been in service for over a year now.

Long story short, at least with my vessels the curve isn't an issue.

-Joe
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:57 AM   #658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
Well, I used the Harris Stay-Brite 8 solder, which I believe is supposed to be better for filling gaps. However, with the 1" nut, there's not a whole lot of a gap anyway - my first one was done with regular Harris Stay-Brite, and it's been in service for over a year now.

Long story short, at least with my vessels the curve isn't an issue.

-Joe
Roger that. Thanks. The Stay-Brite 8 is what I was planning to use. I'm going to do this on a thinner 9 gallon kettle so I was thinking about using something kinda similar to the "tool" to squeeze a flat spot where the nut or coupling would lay. Sounds like I might not need to, though a lot of these mods seem to be happening on converted kegs which have a couple more inches of diameter. I'll have to check it out when my kettle arrives in a couple days.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:14 PM   #659
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I am looking for ideas to solve a small problem. The first solder I did the joint was fairly tight and the solder stayed at the joint. The second joint wasn't so tight so solder flowed through onto the threads of the fitting. Has anybody found a material to back and plug up the backside? Just temporarily / removeable. Would plumbers putty work or would that burn? Thanks.

 
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:30 PM   #660
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You'll likely need to pick up a plug, getting one in Brass will probably be cheaper than SS.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

 
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