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Old 02-26-2011, 05:20 AM   #501
rcm_rx7
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I'm curious if anyone has success with soldering aluminum to ss. My application will be a bit different than what some others have posted. I'll be using an aluminum lock nut for my element soldered to the inside of my Keg. From what I understand this will act as an anode preventing deposits on the element and keg. I assumed it was needed as the anode has recently been an issue with our home water heater.

I'm curious if it's worth trying the aluminum or just ditch that idea and try the SS lock nut. Any input?
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:17 PM   #502
wyzazz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcm_rx7 View Post
I'm curious if anyone has success with soldering aluminum to ss. My application will be a bit different than what some others have posted. I'll be using an aluminum lock nut for my element soldered to the inside of my Keg. From what I understand this will act as an anode preventing deposits on the element and keg. I assumed it was needed as the anode has recently been an issue with our home water heater.

I'm curious if it's worth trying the aluminum or just ditch that idea and try the SS lock nut. Any input?
With that locknut acting as an anode it will break down eventually, someone correct me if I'm wrong, then you'll spring a leak, have to un-solder the locknut & re-solder another on to the pot. If you're using the aluminum locknuts on an SS kettle I'd suggest using them in a weldless installation. If you're going to solder to your SS kettle, use SS or copper. Just my $.02
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:27 PM   #503
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+1. Stainless is just more durable for this application and its better to solder similar metals because aluminum requires special flux.

 
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Old 02-26-2011, 04:23 PM   #504
samc
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Solder SS locknut on outside of kettle and add the Aluminum locknut on the inside (screwed on) if you feel you need it.

 
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Old 02-27-2011, 12:33 AM   #505
rcm_rx7
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Awesome, thanks for the help. I'll probably stay weldless on the element for awhile then.
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:03 PM   #506
Planeinsane
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Ok, I have a stupid question or two..or maybe not so.... What type of clean-up do you need to perform after soldering? wont the flux leave a film and possibly an aftertaste?

 
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:09 PM   #507
wyzazz
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Originally Posted by Planeinsane View Post
Ok, I have a stupid question or two..or maybe not so.... What type of clean-up do you need to perform after soldering? wont the flux leave a film and possibly an aftertaste?
Scrub with BKF and rinse with hot water. That should take care of it.
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:06 PM   #508
bruin_ale
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I've gone through the entire thread at this point.. Are most of you using propane torches for this? Anyone using a soldering iron with success? I have both at my disposal, but probably easier to control where the heat is going if I use the iron.

 
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:09 PM   #509
Scut_Monkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruin_ale View Post
I've gone through the entire thread at this point.. Are most of you using propane torches for this? Anyone using a soldering iron with success? I have both at my disposal, but probably easier to control where the heat is going if I use the iron.
I think code rage or somebody uses an iron and prefers it.

 
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:13 PM   #510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruin_ale
I've gone through the entire thread at this point.. Are most of you using propane torches for this? Anyone using a soldering iron with success? I have both at my disposal, but probably easier to control where the heat is going if I use the iron.
Soldering iron would take way to long to evenly heat the keg and coupling.

Use the torch and circle around the coupling it's thickest and takes longer to heat up. once the couplings is hot enough the solder will melt. Remove heat and let cool then wipe clean.

Get the harris liquid flux or the stuff airgas sells made by radnor. Don't pass go don't collect $200 trying other flux. This stuff just plain works.


-= Jason =-

 
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