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Old 01-25-2011, 03:04 AM   #461
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Just an fyi, you can braze harris 54 rods with map gas no problem. Just stuck a 4'' sanitary clamp on 4'' dwv copper no problem, so I'm sure it would work on a kettle coupling no problem. I did a messy job, but it was my first time brazing ever.....

 
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:32 PM   #462
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I just wanted to reiterate the importance of using a liquid flux designed for ferrous metal. I did all my fittings with paste flux and they were a bitch with the flux causing almost more problems than it solved. After having to redo a couple of the fittings, I finally got the Radnor (Harris) StayClean liquid flux. What a HUGE difference. Soldering with that stuff is effortless compared to what I had been doing. I wish I had this stuff to begin with.
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:40 PM   #463
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I agree about the liquid flux. I've done 5 couplers now and this is simple if you have the right tools. Two things I've learned and it's been mentioned here before: if you use the keg tool, I recommend getting the couplers from mcmaster as well. I bought others that were much too large. Also, once you pull the coupler through check it's position before you solder. I have one that isn't sitting right and I might redo it. What's the best process to take when you want to remove a solder joint and redo it?
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:08 PM   #464
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Liquid Flux is a MUST if you want to solder SS and have it turn out really nice.

I used to have a "Solder Sucker" back in the day when I was adding computer chips to gaming consoles.

get solder hot and liquid then use the sucker to suck up the hot solder.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...sucker&x=0&y=0

-=Jason=-

 
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:52 PM   #465
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I used the harris liquid with soft Ag solder, and it did seem to stick to the stainless pretty well. I used the paste with the harris 54 wire and it also stuck pretty well. It just seems to me that before you go to extra lengths to support a connection and use soft solder, you should just get some mapp and use the hard stuff. It's really just as easy, even thought the melting point is higher.

The only disadvantage I can see is if you are working with copper, because you necessarily have to anneal the copper, and you might not want to. I have seen some people plate Cu onto the stainless, and then solder with standard flux.

 
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:40 PM   #466
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Just got a weldless bulkhead from bargainfittings. It's one of their new ones with a washer soldered to the hex head of a nipple. Looks super clean. I also am a fan of the larger rubber washers you're using now.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:43 PM   #467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
I went the solder-a-fitting-on route. It worked perfectly and was very easy. Steps I took:
  1. Drilled a hole in the side of the kettle so the element would go through (I think 1 1/16" or 1 1/8").
  2. Sanded and cleaned the outside of the kettle.
  3. Sanded and cleaned the 1" NPT locknut.
  4. Fluxed the outside of the kettle around the hole.
  5. Put two rounds of 1/16" solder around the hole.
  6. Fluxed the bottom of the locknut and sat it on top of the solder.
  7. Heated the locknut (which by proxy heated the kettle) until the solder flowed.
  8. Let it cool without touching it.
  9. Profit!



-Joe
I want to do this as well. Anyone know if it would be any different soldering to an aluminum kettle?
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:45 PM   #468
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I don't know that you'll be able to solder stainless to Al. The flux I'm using (Harris Stay-Brite) specifically says it's not for Al.

-Joe
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:46 PM   #469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I want to do this as well. Anyone know if it would be any different soldering to an aluminum kettle?
You need to use a different flux for aluminum, other than that the process is the same. I believe there was discussion on this a few pages back.

Link to aluminum solder http://weldingsupply.securesites.com...?SCAF4||1|700|
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:57 PM   #470
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So that'll solder a SS nut TO Aluminum. Cool. Thanks.
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