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Old 09-14-2010, 01:08 AM   #301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
If I hadn't found this thread, I'd be paying $50 per weld for a local welder (weldor).
That's what I had to do but after finding this thread this evening not again. This has just opened up lots of other opportunities for me that I had been holding back on.

Wayne and Joe (and everyone else), thanks again for the thorough info.

Trace
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:39 PM   #302
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OK. Maybe I have lost my brain, but I can't for the life of me find in this thread where it says I can get the supplies I need. I have a prop. torch, and would like to use the Stay-Brite 8 with the liquid flux. Do I just pick that up at the hardware store? It seems somewhat specialized????

Help a guy out.

.................................................. .

Also, I am hoping to solder in some fittings on a rubber coated keg. Comments? It is one of the sankey style kegs with hard plastic/rubber surrounding the SS vessel. My plan is to cut away a portion of the rubber, pull fittings, and solder. How hot does the surrounding metal get? Do you think I am going to melt the rubber?

 
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:02 PM   #303
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A welding supply in your area should have it. This place has excellent pricing:
Harris Stay-Brite 8 solder
Harris Stay-Clean flux

If you are looking for a small kit:
Tower Hobbies has it at a very reasonable price.

 
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:07 PM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
Also, I am hoping to solder in some fittings on a rubber coated keg. Comments? It is one of the sankey style kegs with hard plastic/rubber surrounding the SS vessel. My plan is to cut away a portion of the rubber, pull fittings, and solder. How hot does the surrounding metal get? Do you think I am going to melt the rubber?
Maybe try a high output soldering iron? Damp rags on the rubber to keep it cool?
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:14 PM   #305
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Is it really worth it to buy stay brite solder in comparison to lead free "silver" plumbing solder. I have this stuff for copper pipe repairs. Is it suitable? Seems others have used similar stuff.
http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/...er-602371.aspx

 
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:39 AM   #306
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I've found that the stay-brite 8 is very difficult to flow on stainless. I eventually used standard lead-free plumbing solder.
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:52 AM   #307
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I've found that the stay-brite 8 is very difficult to flow on stainless. I eventually used standard lead-free plumbing solder.
I like it! That's my justification to cheap out and use what I got. Thanks Pickles.

 
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:24 AM   #308
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I did not have any issues with Stay Brite 8 after I switched to a liquid flux. I have Stay Clean Flux and it works well (though the only container they had was half a gallon; I have a lot left).

Edit: I dont want to take away from your justification. I was typing this before you posted.
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:06 AM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfkriege View Post
I did not have any issues with Stay Brite 8 after I switched to a liquid flux. I have Stay Clean Flux and it works well (though the only container they had was half a gallon; I have a lot left).

Edit: I dont want to take away from your justification. I was typing this before you posted.
No big deal. I'm sure stay brite works well for some but if standard plumbing solder works well for others I would rather go that route. I already have standard solder and don't feel like throwing down the cash for expensive solder unless needed. Things become expensive enough when you are trying to surround yourself with stainless steel.

 
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:49 AM   #310
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In all my tests and successful joints, Stay Clean Liquid flux is the only one that worked well. So defiantely buy liquid flux, they sell it at menards and any welding supply house.
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