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Old 03-06-2013, 09:01 PM   #1191
BargainFittings
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Little blurry but gives you an idea. One wrap of stay-brite solder.

http://youtu.be/F0ojjNj74Vc

 
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:14 AM   #1192
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Thanks for the video that was helpful.

 
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:18 PM   #1193
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When soldering a 2" SHORT ferrule into the kettle to receive the heating element is there enough room between the kettle wall and the ferrule for the clamp? Or would a MEDIUM ferrule be a better option? I was hoping to have as much of the element in the kettle as possible.

Thanks
Steve

 
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:59 PM   #1194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpartyParty View Post
When soldering a 2" SHORT ferrule into the kettle to receive the heating element is there enough room between the kettle wall and the ferrule for the clamp? Or would a MEDIUM ferrule be a better option? I was hoping to have as much of the element in the kettle as possible.

Thanks
Steve
Are you using keggles? It would depend on the curvature of your kettle. the 1/2" ferrules DO NOT provide enough clearance to turn the tri-clamp nut when against a flat surface, although if its up against a curved surface and the clamp is positioned the right way it is possible (but tight) with a keggle. I went with "medium" (7/8" i think?) on the keg, and short (1/2") on my element adapter. Keep in mind you'll loose a little space to your dimple if your soldering as well.

 
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:41 PM   #1195
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So, I was applying my flux with a small paint brush and didn't realize until I was done soldering that the paint brush my fiancee handed to me must of still have paint residue on it because the cup that I had the flux in had changed color. Am I screwed?
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:10 PM   #1196
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If it was red lead undercoat I might be concerned. Otherwise I would just clean it up the best I could.

 
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:43 PM   #1197
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I finished silver soldering my welding spuds, and when I looked at the inside of the keg, I could see that there was a build up of the silver solder in the shape of a ball from it wicking/dripping while soldering. The ball of solder is attached to the welding spud and the side of the keg wall. Do I need to grind this down at all, or would it mainly just be for cosmetic purposes?
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:51 PM   #1198
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If it is not obstructing the threads or passage of anything through the threaded I.D. of the spud, I would not worry about it.
If you were building a fermentor... that would be a different story. I say you are safe just to leave it there.

 
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:53 PM   #1199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidFlame View Post
I finished silver soldering my welding spuds, and when I looked at the inside of the keg, I could see that there was a build up of the silver solder in the shape of a ball from it wicking/dripping while soldering. The ball of solder is attached to the welding spud and the side of the keg wall. Do I need to grind this down at all, or would it mainly just be for cosmetic purposes?
For a boil kettle it is really not needed as it will be sanitized during the boil and cleaning is not as critical. For a fermenter, it is much more of a requirement to have neat clean work.

 
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:18 PM   #1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidFlame View Post
I finished silver soldering my welding spuds, and when I looked at the inside of the keg, I could see that there was a build up of the silver solder in the shape of a ball from it wicking/dripping while soldering. The ball of solder is attached to the welding spud and the side of the keg wall. Do I need to grind this down at all, or would it mainly just be for cosmetic purposes?
One of the easy ways to fix it is to use your torch and gently heat the ball of solder directly until it just starts to soften. Then scrape away the bulk of it and add a little more heat to smooth it out. Either way it should not be an issue. The solder is an alloy of Silver and Tin.

 
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