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Old 02-13-2010, 08:37 PM   #111
BrewBeemer
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Sounds like you had it planned out plus great hearing you used silver solder your good to go.
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:08 PM   #112
skarude
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Yeah figuring out how I wanted to ground the rig has been my biggest question. I didn't want to drill a whole for a bolt and was not really thrilled about cutting out copper sheeting. I hope this holds up well because it seems like the cleanest solution to me.

 
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:44 PM   #113
pickles
 
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Brewmoor,
Did you use safety silv 56 or 45? You first post said45 then later you said 45 wasn't good, just curious. I am gonna us 45.

 
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:00 AM   #114
ScubaSteve
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So can anyone else comment on the durability of this method? I'm kinda depending on this being a viable option for my rig....otherwise it's off to the welder and I just know he's gonna price gouge me

 
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:39 AM   #115
seanmichaleen
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With the Stay-Brite 8 solder, is 1/8" going to be too thick to do decent work? It seems to be more reasonably priced than the other sizes.

 
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Old 03-07-2010, 04:06 PM   #116
P-J
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I talked with a friend yesterday about soldering SS. He was having difficulties soldering a fitting to an aluminum kettle. He will try again this morning.

One of the things he mentioned was this forum as he participates here. He mentioned this thread so I took a look this morning and decided to join and post a comment.

I've been using StayBrite-8 solder and StayClean liquid flux for years. I think it is a great solution for us brewers in fabricating equipment.



This is just one example of the possibilities (click the pix for the inside view)

Another is a fitting on a hopback that I fabricated:



The image is the dry fit - click it to see the finished joint.

One of the things I like about StayBrite-8 is that it has a plastic range that allows me to easily fill gaps.

Anyway, I figured I'd show off a little.

Thanks.

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Old 03-07-2010, 04:59 PM   #117
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Very cool pics. I'll have to try this for my keggle. As of now I have no drains or anything installed on it simply because I don't want to pay for welding and want to do it myself but don't have the tools or skills. Soldering I can do! Awesome thread.

-Prosted


 
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:41 PM   #118
pickles
 
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I tried using Staybrite 8 And Stayclean paste flux and can't get a good joint. I sanded and sided the area , cleaned with denatured alcohol applied flux to both pieces,assembled the fiiti g in a tight fitting hole, heated and applied solder but it just beads up. I'm using mapp gas canister. Should I try to tin the pieces first or is the secret the liquid flux? I've sweated plenty of copper joints but only with propane.

 
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:47 PM   #119
GreenMonti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickles View Post
I tried using Staybrite 8 And Stayclean paste flux and can't get a good joint. I sanded and sided the area , cleaned with denatured alcohol applied flux to both pieces,assembled the fiiti g in a tight fitting hole, heated and applied solder but it just beads up. I'm using mapp gas canister. Should I try to tin the pieces first or is the secret the liquid flux? I've sweated plenty of copper joints but only with propane.
Yea, You need different flux. You need the liquid flux. That's why its beading up.

 
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Old 03-07-2010, 06:26 PM   #120
BrewBeemer
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Cut muriatic acid has always been my favorite, this plus not overheating the joint
if so start completly over with sanding bright again or else you'll ball up like soldering on glass. Done properly stainless solders like copper draws in the solder when it's ready. I use a propane torch or another torch designed for natural gas and compressed that I can silver solder with vs going to O&A. Quick hand eye work also helps, leave the bier alone until done.
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