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Old 02-27-2013, 01:35 PM   #1181
chymera
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Thought I read that someone else had trouble with a ripple element touching the side of the 1.5" TC once it was soldered in, I think it was a different thread. Regardless, I think I'd prefer the 2" because I would like to use this:
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-g...-adapters.html
to protect the wiring etc.


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Old 02-27-2013, 04:25 PM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chymera View Post
Does anyone have a list of parts I would need for building the dimple tool for a 2" tri clamp ferrule. I've read most of this thread but haven't seen one that does not use a custom fabricated piece instead of off the shelf parts. I was thinking this would work for the concentric reducer (although a bit expensive):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

How thick would the screw need to be? 1/2" or 5/8" and how long?
could I use a 2" PVC coupler for the coupling?
What about for the washers?

Also would the long or short ferrule be a better part to solder in?

This is going in a Blichmann 20 gal for an electric element (need the 2" TC so I can use my 5500w ripple element)
The reason that's so high is because of the transistion. Where you meaning to look at a 2" x 1-1/2"? Send me an email if you're looking for these. We have these for like $7.00. Keep in mind that 2" pipe size is bigger than a 2" ferrule.


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Old 02-27-2013, 11:27 PM   #1183
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I used a 2" TC ferrule for my elements, and I would defiantly recommend it over 1.5" if you plan to use the ripple element. While these will fit through a 1" NPS fitting, you will need the extra space due to the longer length it has to pass through (a 1" NPS coupler is shorter, thats why it fits). I used "medium ferrules" on the keg (7/8" long) and short ferrules (1/2" on my element adapter)
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:21 AM   #1184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chymera View Post
Thought I read that someone else had trouble with a ripple element touching the side of the 1.5" TC once it was soldered in, I think it was a different thread. Regardless, I think I'd prefer the 2" because I would like to use this:
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-g...-adapters.html
to protect the wiring etc.
The one you found looks like it is lower cost, but there are alternatives for the same thing with 1.5" tubing:

http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

And if you want to make your own, there is this (go all the way to the bottom): http://conical-fermenter.com/products/spares/

Anyway, with 2" you have nothing to worry about...
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:22 AM   #1185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanMar View Post
I used a 2" TC ferrule for my elements, and I would defiantly recommend it over 1.5" if you plan to use the ripple element. While these will fit through a 1" NPS fitting, you will need the extra space due to the longer length it has to pass through (a 1" NPS coupler is shorter, thats why it fits). I used "medium ferrules" on the keg (7/8" long) and short ferrules (1/2" on my element adapter)
Helpful advice AllanMar, thanks.

-alan
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:04 PM   #1186
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Plenty of people have demonstrated the process but here's mine:

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Old 03-06-2013, 05:22 AM   #1187
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Any tips for soldering a washer onto a hex nipple or compression fitting? There isn't as much mass there as with a pot and coupling.

-Josh
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:35 PM   #1188
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Josh,

Heat the greater of the two masses. Hex nipple or compression fitting.

Heat around the fitting, keeping the heat even all around.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:01 PM   #1189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalypsoCowboy View Post
There isn't as much mass there as with a pot and coupling.

-Josh
This may make it easier to solder, just be careful not to overheat.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:49 PM   #1190
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The trick with a washer on a threaded fitting is to not get too crazy with the solder. You can be feeding it in from the top and not realize that you have $5 worth of solder beaded up on the fitting underneath.


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