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Old 12-14-2012, 01:28 AM   #1101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huaco View Post
I just always pulled the reducer through enough so that I knew I hadn't gone too far and removed the tool to compare the diameter with the OD of my coupler. I would measure with a set of calipers. Once I got under 0.100" I would sand and clean everything, flux it all and pull the fitting through with flux on it. It would open the dimple the rest of the way and "custom fit" it to each individual coupler. Then, I re-fluxed andthen soldered. Worked GREAT and had a nice bead of solder on the far side from the solder puddle too.
I want to buy some calipers. Thanks for the details on your technique.

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:33 AM   #1102
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Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Thanks DustBow. It's nice to know someone agrees. It was hard enough for me to find a picture of my method so (in case anyone is interested and to save them the trouble) I'm posting the best I could quickly find. The drawbacks for some may be: welding (just tacks), steel element nut (some are brass/other) and steel box (aluminum weather proof won’t work).

The ground wire is connected to the box and cord ground and intended to ultimately bond to the kettle. I think it's smart to double up and not only rely on the element threads for grounding.


I really like this lschiavo!

I'm not sure this will work for me though. I will be doing the grounding wire to the kettle for sure. Haven't had time to think about the rest yet.

ETA: I meant to add that the welding is the main issue for me btw.


 
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:41 AM   #1103
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Originally Posted by jsguitar View Post
LiquidFlame, I've only done a few of these so far, but FWIW it looks like your couplings are a little too big for your welding reducer or vice versa depending on how you look at it, and the hole is probably a little too small. Also, I actually have been using one of my 1" full couplings for the receiving end of the tool. You could also use PVC if you have some laying around. I don't think it has to be a close fit really* you just need to be careful to keep things straight as it goes through.

* meaning that the 'reciever' could be bigger
Thanks for the PVC idea worked like a charm.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:28 AM   #1104
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Thanks for the PVC idea worked like a charm.
That's great!

I saw the idea here (of course).

So the couplings and dimples are working together now too?

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:20 AM   #1105
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Originally Posted by LiquidFlame View Post
Butt-weld on top of 1/2" coupler
this is the oposite of what you want. you want your tool to be the same diameter or larger than the coupling you are using. your hole may also be slightly too small for that coupling.

bottoming out on the outside spacer was also part of the problem. glad to hear PVC got you through far enough. if you're using a step bit you may want to try 1 step bigger for next time, and find a bigger reducer to use as a dimple tool if you can.

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:18 PM   #1106
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Originally Posted by LiquidFlame View Post
Ok, some success, the problem I now have is the 1/2"coupler is butting heads with the 1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling, so it won't come any further through. I've been staring at this and can't figure out how you guys pull it all the way through. I've include some pictures of my progress and the tools I'm using. The "Keg Tool" is my friends that I borrowed and he said the butt-weld is from McMaster, but as you can see it's smaller than my 1/2" couplers that I also got from McMaster. The bolt I'm using is a 9/16".

Keg Tool


Butt-weld on top of 1/2" coupler


1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling


1/2" coupler on top of 1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling


As far as the coupler will come out


Some tearing
Your coupler is bigger than the tool, that's why its a pain and shearing the metal at the edge.

McMasters' coupler suppliers seemed to have changed the outside diameter. I had a similar problem and chose to machine down the extra thickness to get out close to the o.d. of the keg tool.

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:57 PM   #1107
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The shearing I'm getting seems to be minimal, will that have much effect when I silver solder the coupling?
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:51 PM   #1108
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Originally Posted by LiquidFlame View Post
The shearing I'm getting seems to be minimal, will that have much effect when I silver solder the coupling?
It will probably be fine for soldering however cracks could be more prone to a failure in the future. Ie you bang the ball valve on something moving it around. Its been pushing 20 years since my materials class but as I recall cracks like to travel when the metal is stressed.

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:03 PM   #1109
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The shearing I'm getting seems to be minimal, will that have much effect when I silver solder the coupling?
I think you're fine, the stainless, even slightly cracked is still much stronger than the solder, which is fairly strong in itself.

If this was the space shuttle we would look at it differently, but the solder should fill and "repair" those minor cracks. Your original hole in the keg also looks a bit on the small side as well, so the dimple really needs to stretch and thus cracks, also the female side of the press tool being too small.

Whether a valve is welded or soldered, if someone were to drop a keg on the valve, something is likely to bend or break IMO.

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:05 PM   #1110
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Originally Posted by Huaco View Post
I just always pulled the reducer through enough so that I knew I hadn't gone too far and removed the tool to compare the diameter with the OD of my coupler. I would measure with a set of calipers. Once I got under 0.100" 0.020" to 0.030" I would sand and clean everything, flux it all and pull the fitting through with flux on it. It would open the dimple the rest of the way and "custom fit" it to each individual coupler. Then, I re-fluxed andthen soldered. Worked GREAT and had a nice bead of solder on the far side from the solder puddle too.
Sorry... didn't remember my measurement. 0.100" would leave way too much metal to pull through. 0.020" to 0.030" is more like what I was doing.

 
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