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Old 12-13-2012, 02:20 AM   #1091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidFlame View Post
What prevents you from using kal's electric box setup for the element.
Because of the longer tapered threads, there is a gap between the box and the coupling. It would need to be snugged up. I just went out and was going to see if the locknut I have would fit in the gap but my garage is so messy from all of this stuff that couldn't find it right now.

 
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:12 AM   #1092
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Look at how Lschiavo does his boxes, electrical connections inside the box and threads outside the box
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:24 AM   #1093
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Look at how Lschiavo does his boxes, electrical connections inside the box and threads outside the box
Thanks DustBow. It's nice to know someone agrees. It was hard enough for me to find a picture of my method so (in case anyone is interested and to save them the trouble) I'm posting the best I could quickly find. The drawbacks for some may be: welding (just tacks), steel element nut (some are brass/other) and steel box (aluminum weather proof won’t work).

The ground wire is connected to the box and cord ground and intended to ultimately bond to the kettle. I think it's smart to double up and not only rely on the element threads for grounding.



 
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:09 PM   #1094
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Started practicing making dimples in my keg lids, and I'm having a he'll of a time getting the butt-weld pipe fitting to pass all the way through. I've sprayed WD-40 on the fittings, and use the technique of placing the 1/2" coupler behind the butt-weld fitting to push it out, but can't get it to pass through. Was seeing if you guys any suggestions or if you used any power tools when you were making dimples.

Also I attempted to pass one of my 1/2" couplings through one of my dimples, and had so much resistance that it wouldn't move through the hole. I feel like I'm doing something wrong, because I can't imagine getting these couplers through just with a ratchet set and my hands.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:14 PM   #1095
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based on the parts in this list from mcmaster you shouldn't ever need to pull the butt weld pipe all the way through. it would make the hole MUCH too big. are you sure the hole you drilled is the proper size? does your dimple tool fit entirely inside the outside spacer when assembled? like are you bottoming out before you get through as far as you need to? are you using all the part #s from McMasterCarr or did you improvise?

you for sure shouldn't have to use power tools, just elbow grease.

pics of your setup would help.

 
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:38 PM   #1096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post
based on the parts in this list from mcmaster you shouldn't ever need to pull the butt weld pipe all the way through. it would make the hole MUCH too big. are you sure the hole you drilled is the proper size? does your dimple tool fit entirely inside the outside spacer when assembled? like are you bottoming out before you get through as far as you need to? are you using all the part #s from McMasterCarr or did you improvise?

you for sure shouldn't have to use power tools, just elbow grease.

pics of your setup would help.
I had to grind down my butt weld fitting from mcmaster to get it to pass the whole way through. The attempts I made with it before doing this I had to stop short of coming the whole way through or it would tear the metal I was dimpling. (Thin old pot I was practicing on)

I found it was easier to gring it down a little than paying close attention on where to stop.

 
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:40 PM   #1097
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is the OD of the butt weld fitting the same as the coupling you're using? they should be pretty close for this to work correctly.

 
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:04 PM   #1098
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I just always pulled the reducer through enough so that I knew I hadn't gone too far and removed the tool to compare the diameter with the OD of my coupler. I would measure with a set of calipers. Once I got under 0.100" I would sand and clean everything, flux it all and pull the fitting through with flux on it. It would open the dimple the rest of the way and "custom fit" it to each individual coupler. Then, I re-fluxed andthen soldered. Worked GREAT and had a nice bead of solder on the far side from the solder puddle too.

 
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:31 AM   #1099
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Ok, some success, the problem I now have is the 1/2"coupler is butting heads with the 1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling, so it won't come any further through. I've been staring at this and can't figure out how you guys pull it all the way through. I've include some pictures of my progress and the tools I'm using. The "Keg Tool" is my friends that I borrowed and he said the butt-weld is from McMaster, but as you can see it's smaller than my 1/2" couplers that I also got from McMaster. The bolt I'm using is a 9/16".

Keg Tool


Butt-weld on top of 1/2" coupler


1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling


1/2" coupler on top of 1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling


As far as the coupler will come out


Some tearing
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Old 12-14-2012, 01:23 AM   #1100
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LiquidFlame, I've only done a few of these so far, but FWIW it looks like your couplings are a little too big for your welding reducer or vice versa depending on how you look at it, and the hole is probably a little too small. Also, I actually have been using one of my 1" full couplings for the receiving end of the tool. You could also use PVC if you have some laying around. I don't think it has to be a close fit really* you just need to be careful to keep things straight as it goes through.

* meaning that the 'reciever' could be bigger

 
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