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Old 10-22-2012, 02:37 PM   #1041
OMJ
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Anyone done with with 2" triclamp ferules? If so what size hole did you use and what size fittings did you use to make the hole.



 
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:29 PM   #1042
StainlessBrewing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMJ View Post
Anyone done with with 2" triclamp ferules? If so what size hole did you use and what size fittings did you use to make the hole.
You could try a 2"OD concentric reducer or a 1-1/2 Pipe size reducer that has an OD of about 1.90. The pipe size concentric reducer would definitely be cheaper than the tube conc.


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Old 10-24-2012, 02:53 AM   #1043
Squeeky
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Ok I apologize, but I'm looking to purchase punches for my new automated setup. I've used a step bit in the past but will likely be using thin walled kettles and feel a punch would be preferred.

I know that a 1/2" Greenlee punch makes 7/8" hole which works for the 1/2" couplings. My issue comes to the size hole for the 1" half coupling, I've read reference to habor freight punches, but I can't determine if that is for weldless use or dimpling/coupling. What would be the Greenlee model number for 1/2" and 1" coupling dimples. It would be great to have these, as well as usable solder/flux in first page.

Squeeky

 
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:13 PM   #1044
cgherrington3
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Jun 2012
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Everbody has a different take on this, so I thought I throw out mine.

I'm way to cheap to buy anything, so I built a dimple maker out of 2 sockets and bolt.

Drilled a 1/2" hole with a step bit, pulled the dimple, and ran 3/4 ridged copper pipe through and soldered.

Attach fitting of your choice to pipe.

13mm kobalt 1/2 drive socket makes the dimple

24mm socket, bolt, washers, nut yada yada yada

don't pull it all the way through it will be too loose


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Old 10-26-2012, 03:51 PM   #1045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swagman View Post
If you don't mind like to stick my two cents in.

I have used silver solder for several years, some for fittings on stainless steel gas tanks, and a few custom fittings for brewers. There are several good brands myself I like sta-brite solder and acid.

For a tool I have found that a large very large Iron the one I have a present is 150 watt. I found better control and less of change of overheating like with a torch.

Just my two cents

Swagman
I love sta-brite, used a lot of Sta-Brite #8 in HVAC.

 
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:15 PM   #1046
CoalCracker
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http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UIrE7mfheCc

Would this stuff work? They have it at my local TSC.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:07 AM   #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoalCracker View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UIrE7mfheCc

Would this stuff work? They have it at my local TSC.
Not what you want...use stay brite 8

 
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:21 AM   #1048
cgherrington3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoalCracker View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UIrE7mfheCc

Would this stuff work? They have it at my local TSC.

I'm picking this up at the depot today. I'll let you know how it works. $10 Harris Stay-Brite kit (p/n SBSKPOP). Includes 1/2 oz Stay-Clean liquid Flux and and 1/2 oz 4% silver solder.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

EDIT: NOT IN STOCK IN LOCAL STORE

 
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:38 AM   #1049
latencymachine
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I finally got around to soldering the "welding spud" I bought a while back from Brewhardware.com on to my HLT. It was a lot easier to do than I thought and seems to be very strong. I should have done it months ago instead of putting off.

I used the Harris Staybrite kit mentioned many times here -- bought it off ebay. This solder performed fantastic using just a propane torch (with a left-over camping bottle). To make the hole I used TiN drill bits and my collection of Harbor Freight step bits, finishing with the big 'n.

I wound the solder around the boss several times and rested the spud onto the pot with the hole up. Then I heated it from the top as well as a little from the bottom. The solder melted and wicked great. It wet perfect on the inside wall and formed a real nice looking fillet seal around the boss. On the outside, the fillet mostly formed around the spud but left some gaps on the edge where the tank wall curves away from the spud. I even pounded the tank a bit during preparation but I guess it could have used some more. If I did it again I'd wind the solder the full width of the flange. Nevertheless the joint was liquid tight and strong enough to hold up to some moderate wrenching torque.

I'm using this for a digital probe thermometer in my HLT in conjunction with this other fitting rig from BrewHardware.com. I'm real happy with the result.

I also noticed that with a 1/2" male NPT fitting installed on the outside, you can still get another 1/2" male NPT fitting to thread on the inside. You don't get a lot of threads/turns but it seems like it would be enough for a pickup tube.

These spuds are definitely the way to go. I'll be ordering more now for sure. I say to heck with couplers and weldless kits. I do have the McMaster fitting rig for the 'dimpling tool' too but never used it since the couplers I ended up with were too big OD. I probably won't ever use it and just stick with the spuds.

 
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:22 PM   #1050
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^^^^^
I just ordered the compression fitting and Thermometer to make this setup for my chilled wort output! Should deliver tomorrow actually! BobbyM is the man! He is still playing catch up from Hurricane Sandy and still got my order to me in time for brew day on Saturday!


I am using the hose barb setup on mine because I had one laying around. My only thought is that I may need to put a ball valve on the out-flow to slightly restrict wort flow to ensure the thermometer probe is in contact with chilled wort. Or, I could just slightly squeeze the silicone tube and achieve the same thing I guess...



 
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