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Old 01-07-2010, 11:48 PM   #11
Yooper
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I just went with 4.8% AAU Willamette, since that's what mine are.

The kit gives you approximately 13.5 IBUs with a 2.5 gallon boil. That's fine for that style of beer, right in the middle of where it should be.

With a 6 gallon boil, I get 22 IBUs. With .75 ounce of the willamette (4.8%), I get 17.4 IBUs. So, for a full boil, I'd use .75 ounce of bittering hops. That should get you close.


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Old 01-07-2010, 11:50 PM   #12
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Also, keep in mind that you'll need some way to cool 5 gallons of hot wort. It takes a very long time to do it without a wort chiller, unless you have something set up to cool it.


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Old 01-08-2010, 01:58 PM   #13
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When entering data into a brewing calculator under fermentables do I include the malts that are steeping for a bit?

 
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel48 View Post
When entering data into a brewing calculator under fermentables do I include the malts that are steeping for a bit?
yes 1234

 
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel48 View Post
When entering data into a brewing calculator under fermentables do I include the malts that are steeping for a bit?
You can, but in an extract batch with just steeping grains, the fermentables extract are almost nil. Make sure the calculator gives you the proper OG.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YooperBrew View Post
You can, but in an extract batch with just steeping grains, the fermentables extract are almost nil. Make sure the calculator gives you the proper OG.
They may not be fermentable but they contain sugars that will effect the OG and FG. An exagerated example would be a beer with a ton of crystal. say your making an amber and you use a pound and a half of crystal. That has to have some effect on the OG and since it's not fermentable sugar it will also bump up the FG. I'd put all the steep grains into your software.

 
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YooperBrew View Post
I just went with 4.8% AAU Willamette, since that's what mine are.

The kit gives you approximately 13.5 IBUs with a 2.5 gallon boil. That's fine for that style of beer, right in the middle of where it should be.

With a 6 gallon boil, I get 22 IBUs. With .75 ounce of the willamette (4.8%), I get 17.4 IBUs. So, for a full boil, I'd use .75 ounce of bittering hops. That should get you close.
Did you use 6 gallons because that is the amount of water I should start out with to get to 5 gallons after evap?

 
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel48 View Post
Did you use 6 gallons because that is the amount of water I should start out with to get to 5 gallons after evap?
Yes, that is just a guess. You might boil off more, or less. But 6 gallons is a good starting point. If you boil off more, you can add a bit of water to get you back to 5 gallons at the end.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:37 PM   #19
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The instruction sheet says the beer should have around 21-25 IBU's. When I put it into the calculator at 2.5 gallons it is showing up as 17.5 IBU's. Should I consider the calculator to be more accurate than the instructions? I am assuming I should make the changes for a full boil to try and get my IBU's between 21-25, not the 17.5 the calculator is showing me.


 
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:39 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YooperBrew View Post
I just went with 4.8% AAU Willamette, since that's what mine are.
Really close the package says 4.9%



 
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