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Old 01-07-2010, 03:34 AM   #11
HarkinBanks
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I did the copper thing. It was a bit of a pain, but it made me feel better. Here are instructions.

http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/T...in-a-cooler%29

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:45 PM   #12
lincoln
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage View Post
Best option would be to weld or braze a flat head screw face down onto the pot, giving you a mounting point.
you can silver solder to stainless as well, requires acid flux.

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:00 PM   #13
tkone
 
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thanks for all the awesome advice i think the copper thing will be the easiest as of now.

So if I have that copper ring sandwiched between the element and the kettle and attach the ground to that copper tab that should do it?

can i put an oring between the element and the sheet of copper so its:

ELEMENT:ORING:COPPER:POT:ORING:LOCKNUT
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:25 PM   #14
Ohio-Ed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkone View Post
thanks for all the awesome advice i think the copper thing will be the easiest as of now.

So if I have that copper ring sandwiched between the element and the kettle and attach the ground to that copper tab that should do it?

can i put an oring between the element and the sheet of copper so its:

ELEMENT:ORING:COPPER:POT:ORING:LOCKNUT
An o-ring on both sides of the copper, pretty much insulates it and prevents it from doing what it is intended to do.

I would look at the possibility of using one o-ring... you really need the copper in contact with the metal element base AND the kettle... if you have to pick one, I'd make sure you have good contact with the kettle.

You may fight with leaks between the copper and the kettle, but I would try it.

Another sort of obstacle you are facing is that the teflon tape you put on the element threads will, to some extent, also act as an insulator. When you tighten the nut, it may cut the teflon and "bond" the metal base to the kettle, but you should try to confirm that.

Sorry, I don't have a good answer for you which is why I'm not really a fan of mounting an element like this. But then hey, a lot of people have done it this way and as far as I know, no one has died... yet.

Ed

Just occured to me... You might also try just using an o-ring on the inside of the kettle. Test for leaks before you plug it in.

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:39 PM   #15
tkone
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
An o-ring on both sides of the copper, pretty much insulates it and prevents it from doing what it is intended to do.

I would look at the possibility of using one o-ring... you really need the copper in contact with the metal element base AND the kettle... if you have to pick one, I'd make sure you have good contact with the kettle.
Got it. I'm pretty sure BOTH orings are overkill.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Another sort of obstacle you are facing is that the teflon tape you put on the element threads will, to some extent, also act as an insulator. When you tighten the nut, it may cut the teflon and "bond" the metal base to the kettle, but you should try to confirm that.
No teflon near the element. Only on the thermometer and the ball valve. The element hole was made better so it seals better with the orings.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Just occured to me... You might also try just using an o-ring on the inside of the kettle. Test for leaks before you plug it in.
That's exactly what I was thinking. I had two orings, but one may suffice.

To test for ground with a multimeter what would I want to see?

Thanks for all the help everyone!
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On tap:
You Porter, You Dug 'er Up (Munich/Crystal version)
Todd's Special Bitter
Brown Cascade Hoppy Brown Ale

Fermenting:
You Porter, You Dug 'er Up (Amber/Brown malt version)
Shortwrench IPA (Longhammer Clone)

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:45 PM   #16
HarkinBanks
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If you put the copper o-ring on the kettle and then the element it will most likely leak; it did for me. I JB-welded the copper o-ring to the top side of the element ring and then soldered the ground wire to the copper o-ring. Certainly not to code, but it works for me and I have a bunch of GFCI plugs and switches in the middle of it all before it gets to a plug.

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:52 PM   #17
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In my response I thought you had both o-ring on the outside of the kettle... after re-reading your post I see you are planning one on the inside already... so that's cool.

There should be no resistance between the ground / element base / kettle. And I would make sure it is a physically solid connection too.

Have you water tested without taping the threads? I think water will often "chase" the threads and leak, but maybe the straight cut threads takes care of that?

Ed

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:00 PM   #18
tkone
 
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yeah i water tested without teflon -- the thermo and ball valve leaked, but the element didn't. so wrapped the other two.

i'll have to test the single o-ring tonight, but we may have a winner. and then i can brew on this new thing this weekend!
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On tap:
You Porter, You Dug 'er Up (Munich/Crystal version)
Todd's Special Bitter
Brown Cascade Hoppy Brown Ale

Fermenting:
You Porter, You Dug 'er Up (Amber/Brown malt version)
Shortwrench IPA (Longhammer Clone)

 
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:47 PM   #19
Wade E
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I did the copper washer also but left enough of a tab tom use a connector instead of soldering it so that it could be removed if needed.
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