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Old 12-14-2009, 08:08 PM   #1
Munch671
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Well I figured with the diverse amount of people and profession on this forum maybe I could find a good answer here since I am hitting a brick wall. I am looking at framing my basement. Typically I know you would secure the wall frames with either a combination of liquid nail and cement screws or anchors. However, I have in floor heat in the basement and it was not laid by me so I have no idea of where the lines run, so I am looking for alternatives for securing the walls.

Is liquid nails enough?

 
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:22 PM   #2
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These walls are basically partition walls, correct? In that case, using liquid nails and framing fairly tightly (floor-to-ceiling) should be sufficient and especially if there are connected walls at perpendicular angles. I'm not sure what kind of shear forces you expect on the walls, but I would feel comfortable with an appropriate adhesive (one designated for wood to your flooring substrate.

Could the weight of the walls pinch/sever electrical/heat lines in the floor? or could direct, prolonged exposure to the floor cause issues with the glue, wood, or wall covering? I think that would be more of a concern than the walls toppling or shifting.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:49 PM   #3
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I agree with the liquid nails and framing from floor to ceiling. If you really wanted to tie into the concrete walls/floor, you could have someone come out with a thermal camera, take pics of your walls, the heaters will either be warmer or colder than the surrounding concrete. That is how we check CMU walls in existing construction to see how often they placed rebar.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:28 PM   #4
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I used to help my neighbor build decks he owns his carpentry business . They would use the PL 400 on all the decks it was permanent I'll tell you if you put something in the wrong place you would have to destroy it to remove it. The bond was stronger than the wood.

I don't know about the code where you are but the sill has to be pressure treated where it contacts the concrete and the walls on the foundation need to be away from the concrete by at least 1" . This way if the concrete weeps or gets condensation it wont rot the wood over time . Its code here to do this
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:25 PM   #5
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I used a LockTite construction adhesive when I framed out my old garage. The concrete was too crumbly for nailing, but that PTL 2x4 isn't ever going anywhere!
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:24 PM   #6
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Awesome, thanks guys.
Not sure what the exact code is here in WI, but once I get them up and put up the drywall I not too worried about it.
As for the thermal camera, never thought of that, and I think that would be fun too.

 
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Old 12-15-2009, 02:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munch671 View Post
Awesome, thanks guys.
Not sure what the exact code is here in WI, but once I get them up and put up the drywall I not too worried about it.
As for the thermal camera, never thought of that, and I think that would be fun too.
I agree with Springer's advice about Pressure Treated plates and staying off the concrete walls. You will be concerned if your insulation or drywall gets moist and you end up with mold...

 
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Old 12-15-2009, 04:07 PM   #8
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Carpenters Christmas
[youtube]RSHevB1QZOM[/youtube]
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Old 12-15-2009, 04:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
I agree with Springer's advice about Pressure Treated plates and staying off the concrete walls. You will be concerned if your insulation or drywall gets moist and you end up with mold...

As I am redoing my basement bar area I have been using the Dense Armour wall board too there is no paper on the board for mold to eat . When I get to the exterior walls I will use either the blue board or have someone come in and spray the polyurethane foam depends on the cost .
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Old 12-15-2009, 05:08 PM   #10
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Carpenters Christmas
Thanks, I enjoyed that...Merry Carpenter's to you too...
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