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Old 05-02-2010, 02:24 PM   #31
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A word about cost between Sam's club and Gorden food service- I go to both stores quite often(the fact that they are across the street from one another helps lol) and the Sam's club honey was $12 for 5 lbs and the Gorden Foods was $12 for 6 lbs so if you are in a big town and gonna check out Sam's and there is a GFS nearby, give them a peek-- you don't even have to have a membership to go there. it is just clover honey, but for brochet it would be fine.
When ya gotta brew, saving a few bucks here and there never hurts!


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Old 06-09-2010, 03:08 AM   #32
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Another update. The bochet mead did well at the Celtic Brew-off and got me first place and a Best of Show in meads.

Its a nice drink and is doing well in the circuit.


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Old 06-09-2010, 03:52 AM   #33
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Congrats!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
Another update. The bochet mead did well at the Celtic Brew-off and got me first place and a Best of Show in meads.

Its a nice drink and is doing well in the circuit.
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Old 06-19-2010, 06:18 AM   #34
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congrats... Going to try this for the summer...

I don't like my mead too sweet... how sweet is it? I remember making a prickly pear mead with 20lbs of honey.. and it was too sweet.... 14 lbs of honey I liked better...

so you boiled honey for about 2 hours... would u recommend 170 mins like another member did?

I never heard of zinc fortified yeast... is that dead yeast? .1 g? that's a very little, what kind of scale did u use? So that gets boiled right?

Something that always confused me about yeast nutrients (extract). I have some, looks like salt, it's white and crystalized. But isn't there bacteria in it that can contaminate the mead? Are we supposed to boil it? I remember I threw some in while boiling another mead... and it boiled over!!! DOH!!! are we supposed to boil it? If you boil it... is it bad? But if you don't you introduce contaminates... still confuses me...

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The official recipe from 2008 Nov/Dec Zymurgy page 46. Article starts on page 45 - "Mead: Party Like its 1949"

18.5 lb light honey
4.0 g yeast extract or yeast nutrient
0.1 g zinc fortified yeast as nutrient
3 Tablespoon yeast (40g) dried champagne or mead yeast (Prise de Mousse recommended)

Target original gravity 1.130 - 1.138
Approx Final Gravity 1.028-1.038
Alcohol 14 to 15% by volume

Add honey to pot. Do not add water. Gently boil the honey until dark and tastes caramelized.

Add 1 gallon of water, zinc fortified yeast and blend into the "scorched honey" Stir until dissolved well.

Blend hot honey and water mixture to 2 gallons of cold water and add to your primary.

Top up to 5 gallons total volume. Aerate extremely well and add dissolved yeast nutrient (yeast extract)

When temp is below 80 F add re hydrated yeast. Ferment between 70-75 F

It may take 3 weeks to 3 months to finish primary.

Rack and transfer to secondary. Store at cooler temperatures Rack off sediment after six months to a year. Bottle when clear and all fermentation ceased. Cork in wine bottles for long term aging.
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Old 06-30-2010, 12:39 PM   #35
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I made 1 gallon of this last week. It started fermenting ok, but the past couple of days it has completely stopped. I tried adding more yeast nutrient, and racked it to a secondary, but after a day it is still doing nothing. There was a layer of yeast on the bottom of the 1 gallon jar in the primary. There is no airlock activity, and nothing moving in the must. I used Red Star Pasteur Champagne Yeast, should I have used another type? I let it cool to room temperature before adding the yeast initially. Or is this a very slow fermentation, with no activity. The SG was 1.134, it is about 1.098 now, so plenty of sugar left to ferment (I hope)

After reading the forums a little more, I realize I didn't rehydrate the yeast. Could this have caused a premature end of the fermentation? I haven't used dry yeast in about 15 years so didn't think of rehydrating it. Should I buy more dry yeast and rehydrate then pitch it?

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Old 06-30-2010, 01:01 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfulton View Post
I made 1 gallon of this last week. It started fermenting ok, but the past couple of days it has completely stopped.
Check the pH. I have found that meads that have been boiled and skimmed tend to drop their pH even faster than traditionals that haven't been boiled.
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:19 PM   #37
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Yeah looks like it is low. It's hard to tell the difference between the colors, but <=3.4. Should I add something to raise the pH, and more (rehydrated) yeast, or would the additive alone be enough? And how much would be needed for about 1 gallon of must to increase pH to the desired level?

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Old 06-30-2010, 02:37 PM   #38
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If you use potassium bicarbonate, 1-2 grams will be a good start. You don't want to drive the pH way up - you just want to get the yeast moving. I will add that amount and then recheck the pH later to make sure it gets up to about 3.4. If not, I'd add it 1 gram at a time until I get there.

Usually, adjusting the pH will allow the yeast that are already there to become active again and pitching more typically isn't necessary. It does help to have an accurate pH reading - a pH of 3.4 will not stall yeast, but if it is lower than 3.1, it can be a problem.
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:09 PM   #39
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I added 1.5 tsp, the pH is about 3.8 now. I wish I could give a more accurate reading, but the colors on the chart are impossible to tell the difference between 2.8, 3.2 and 3.4.
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:33 PM   #40
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At 3.8 you should be good.

A pH meter is one of the best investments you can make for mead/wine making. (They can be handy for beer too )


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