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Old 11-18-2009, 01:20 AM   #1
Bizoune
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Jun 2009
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So I've got some brass fittings, ball valves, barbs the whole bit. Any reason why I shouldn't build one myself for half of what it would cost me at a homebrew shop? Anything specific that I should watch out for?



 
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:58 AM   #2
ClarnoBrewer
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I've also wondered this. It's not like you're building a nuclear reactor. It should be easy to leak test. I think I'd want to buy a couple of check valves to add in, but the rest shouldn't be too bad. Let us know if you go for it. Good luck!



Reason: Typos!

 
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:51 AM   #3
conpewter
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I made mine out of a couple distribution blocks (1 into 2) from harbor freight, 99 cents each. I did spring for the shut-off check valves for each line though.
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:04 AM   #4
BargainFittings
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
I made mine out of a couple distribution blocks (1 into 2) from harbor freight, 99 cents each. I did spring for the shut-off check valves for each line though.
Where did you get the shut off check valves? I put together the same thing but I used inline check valves so its not very pretty.

 
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:18 AM   #5
nostalgia
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Feb 2008
Port Murray, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizoune View Post
So I've got some brass fittings, ball valves, barbs the whole bit. Any reason why I shouldn't build one myself for half of what it would cost me at a homebrew shop? Anything specific that I should watch out for?
No reason not to. I've already done it myself. I would recommend check valves as already mentioned. I believe I got mine from Kegconnection.com? It was a while ago, though.

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Old 11-18-2009, 03:25 AM   #6
WenValley
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One thing that I discovered when I built my own manifold was that most of the base blocks have the holes drilled too close together. The holes are so close that you can't screw in the adjacent valve because there's no clearance.

One way around this is to mount a valve, then in the next hole insert a 2"x 1/4" brass nipple. Then mount the next valve onto the nipple.

So you end up with two "rows" of valves. One row mounted right onto the base block, and the second row of valves mounted onto the nipples.

I've not had good luck posting photos, but I could give it a go if you're interested.

You can string as many base blocks together as you like, until you run out of room.

Good Luck...
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Old 11-18-2009, 05:07 AM   #7
Grimtas
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Sep 2009
Peyton, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
Where did you get the shut off check valves? I put together the same thing but I used inline check valves so its not very pretty.
American Beverage Equipment is the best place I've found so far for the check valve assemblies. They are the manufacturer of the ones you buy on the manifolds from the LHBS.

 
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:15 AM   #8
jtrainer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
I made mine out of a couple distribution blocks (1 into 2) from harbor freight, 99 cents each. I did spring for the shut-off check valves for each line though.
I too made mine from the blue manifold blocks from Harbor Freight as well. My check/ball valves are from the CHI company Item:05G07313

I have 2 regulators connected one to each block so I can have multiple pressures available. They connect very easy as well. If you use these, most likely the black plugs they have will leak. Don't rely on them.
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
Where did you get the shut off check valves? I put together the same thing but I used inline check valves so its not very pretty.
I just shopped around the online homebrew shops, looks like there are some other good suggestions above.
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:56 PM   #10
chucke
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Mar 2009
East Central Alabama
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Here's what I use-

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96398

Add quick connects at both sides, and a plug underneath.



 
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