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Old 11-29-2009, 05:08 PM   #21
wyzazz
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Looks very cool, well worth the wait for the pron! I can't wait to see some more.

 
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Old 11-29-2009, 07:12 PM   #22
bendavanza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Looks very nice but I'm just curious about your "Power In"...
Looks like you are using a standard outlet, doesn't that mean you will need a cord with a male connector on each end? Could be hazardous? I'm not being critical, I'm dealing with the same thing on the panel I am building. Recessed plugs and/or locking connectors can be expensive.

What's the opinion of the HBT experts on this?

Ed
That was my question, too. Even if you are very careful, it seems like a bad idea. I'd prefer to see a short power cord, and use an extension cord for reach, or a computer style socket, like these:

Nonetheless, I love the idea and the compactness of this toolbox.

 
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Old 11-29-2009, 07:20 PM   #23
CodeRage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Looks very nice but I'm just curious about your "Power In"...
Looks like you are using a standard outlet, doesn't that mean you will need a cord with a male connector on each end? Could be hazardous? I'm not being critical, I'm dealing with the same thing on the panel I am building. Recessed plugs and/or locking connectors can be expensive.

What's the opinion of the HBT experts on this?

Ed

Big no no, I didn't catch that.

BK, either put a recessed male connector on the box or a pig tail with a female receptacle. Twistlocks are worth the extra cash IMHO.
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:29 PM   #24
leboeuf
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That or you can leave it the way it is to baffle anyone who tries to use it while you're not around

Recessed male plugs are really cheap though...

 
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:24 AM   #25
Wayne1
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Those standard IEC inlets are only rated to 15 amps. I believe this box will draw a bit more. There are 20 amp rated IEC inlets, but they do cost a fair amount.





The hard wire to a male outlet is fine, but make sure you use a good strain relief on the toolbox. You should also make sure all your AC cables are terminated in a 20 amp male connector.



I will suggest you might want to add some additional venting to the tool box to allow a cross flow.

The big thing I am curious about is how you intend to get a full five gallons out of a 7.5 gallon brew kettle. For me, I have to start with roughly 8.3 gallons in my kettle to allow for evaporation and transfer losses.

Good luck with the build.

 
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Old 11-30-2009, 12:55 AM   #26
Sockmonkey
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Feb 2008
Columbus, OH
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Here are the IEC inlets I used for 20A circuits. They are $1.72 each.
http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Qual...tJbbdrWw%3d%3d

Yes, the description lists them at 16A, but I looked them up in the manufacturer's documentation and they were indeed rated for 20A.

 
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Old 11-30-2009, 02:40 AM   #27
Boerderij_Kabouter
 
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Why is it dangerous to use a female receptacle for the power? We are just going to make a male to male power cord for his power connection... what is wrong with that?

The box is grounded.

The wiring is a bit crazy but I had a bunch of solid core wire laying around and we used that instead of buying stranded. As such, it is difficult to make it look nice... oh well. Maybe we can spend some time wrestling it but that will be after the system is finished if at all.

 
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Old 11-30-2009, 02:46 AM   #28
Ohio-Ed
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If you un-plug the box, before you unplug the cord from the wall, you have exposed live 120v "prongs"
When you look at a cord laying on the floor, if you see the prongs, you usually assume it's safe.

Ed

 
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:01 AM   #29
Coastarine
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I want to be able to buy one of these boxes assembled. Could be very marketable.
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Old 11-30-2009, 02:39 PM   #30
bendavanza
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Me too.
-Ben


Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastarine View Post
I want to be able to buy one of these boxes assembled. Could be very marketable.

 
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