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Old 10-10-2006, 12:16 AM   #11
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Use 8 lbs of 2-row instead of the extract.


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Old 10-10-2006, 12:37 AM   #12
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simple enough I guess. Should I lower the hops amounts because of the larger boil, or would it not matter enough?


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Old 10-10-2006, 12:51 AM   #13
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shouldnt matter too much
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:09 AM   #14
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This sounds great, going to get the supplies.

What color should I expect from this, considering the changes to the original recipe (5.5lbs of extra light DME) Also, I understand that the Aromatic grains should be mashed, but some of the characteristics will be extracted with steeping. What is this grain contributing to this beer considering that limitation, and what does it do for the color?

Any other suggestions or techniques to aid in the clarity or dryness I want to achieve?

Not trying to question everything, just want to learn more each time I brew.....thanks guys...I did not get such a warm reception over at Northern Brewer forum.

Craig
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Old 10-10-2006, 03:09 AM   #15
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should get a SRM of about 6 (dark dehydrated pee)
Dont worry about mashing the grain, just steep it for about 30 minutes at about 150 - 160. Mainly all you're looking to get out of it is the flavor, armoma and color. It will darken the brew (40L IIRC)
add some Irish Moss to the boil (1 teaspoon at 15 minutes left)
maybe some malto dextrin (8oz?) or head enhancer - ask at the LHBS about it
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Old 10-10-2006, 06:56 AM   #16
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Does the maltodextrine give mouthfeel/body without adding any sweetness. I want to avoid any lingering sweetness in this beer.
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Old 10-10-2006, 05:07 PM   #17
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I posted the recipe to another forum and got some feedback. It is interesting to cross post(teamwork!) I think they have some interesting points that may hone in on the style I am looking for. Maybe I will call it "Almost Pilsner Ale"

I told them "I will settle for clean, dry and smooth any style (original aim was Czech Pils). The relatives are macrobeer drinkers but they will stray. I did want the hop flavor to be present(I want to stretch these macros a bit), but very balanced bitterness and no lingering sweetness is key. "

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"If you weren't planning to already, I'd consider making a healthy starter, and make sure to aerate it well, as well. With such low bitterness, if your beer failed to attenuate well, you'd have a very noticeable sweetness to it. So basically you want to make sure the yeast go to town, so a good starter and oxygen rich wort are ideal. The maltodextrin is an interesting choice...do you think it might make the beer thicker than it need be? If these are macro drinkers, they probably would welcome a thinner mouthfeel in general. Not necessarily, but its something to consider. Personally, I'd probably go the other direction...adding a bit of honey or cane sugar to provide more complete attenuation, and lighter mouthfeel.

I hope they like it! sounds good."
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"I would lean towards, on the hop schedule, keep the Tett for bittering, but using the Saaz around 10 minutes for subtle flavour and aroma and losing the hallertauer altogether. It sounds like a nice, interesting noble hop beer, but it might be overly hoppy (I know, given the recipe, that hardly sounds possible to us brewers) for the palates of the uninitiated. I find that BMC drinkers tend to be more put off by hops than any other component. I think keeping the Saaz in will make sure they still can notice it, but on a more subtle level so they aren't whacked across the face with noble hop aroma. Or, lol, you can dry hop half the batch...or just put a hop cone in half the bottles as you fill them, some for them, some for you!"

---------------------------

As a rule of thumb it is better to brew at the yeast's lower temp range and not the upper. I'd go back to an ale yeast.



What do you guys think?

I was hoping to stay with the WLP 810, since it specifically says retains lager characteristics up to 65 deg. Usually my limit is 65 with a wet towel and fan, but it has cooled down a bit here in AZ, so I think I may be able to push it down to 63. Profile for yeast says temp range 50-65.



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