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Old 11-10-2009, 02:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmb View Post
Only problem with that stuff is that you can't really see through it like the silicone. Otherwise, it's perfectly serviceable.
+1 on can't see through it. I actually have a setup where the tubing from the boil kettle to the pump is the NB opaque tubing and AHBS translucent silicon from pump to whirlpool chiller. One side blind is a pain when having pump priming issues. I am willing to pay extra for translucent tubing.

 
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Old 11-10-2009, 02:58 PM   #22
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The translucent properties make sense. I will be using a pump in the future (sitting in my basement waiting) so Maybe I'll go silicone.
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
anyone use this stuff??

$1.40/ft and safe up to 275F. Don't see a reason to pay an extra dollar/foot for silicone....
I use it and have had no problems. I haven't used the thermoplastic in really cold conditions so I can't say how it will change.

I also have some silicone (the thick walled stuff). As already stated, silicone is more flexible and translucent.

Up to this point I have had more issues with the silicone than the thermoplastic... specifically, if you have a fairly long hose coming straight out of a vessel the weight of the full hose can tend to cause the silicone to bend down and sorta kink, restricting the flow.

Ed

Edit: I use clear polycarbonate QD's so while the thermoplastic hose is not translucent, I have kind of a small sight glass at each connection.

Reason: More info...

 
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:24 PM   #24
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fishersci.com

 
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
True and false... I buy all of mine from US Plastics, and it is 1/2" x 3/4" thick walled. But you have to select it and not the thin walled stuff, they have various types.\

Here is a link to the thick walled... I buy from them as I can throw it in with my fermentor orders and not pay any more shipping really.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...ant%5Fid=54039
What fermenters are you buying?
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Old 11-11-2009, 02:57 AM   #26
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What fermenters are you buying?
6 galllon Winpaks

$15, they are excellent

 
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Old 11-25-2009, 02:30 PM   #27
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Excellent thread - just when I was looking for replacement tubing!

I am currently replacing PEX tubing with silicone. The PEX is opaque, and far too rigid to easily sanitize.

Those of you using the silicone tubing, what kind of clamps are you using to attach your fittings? I want to ensure that I don't tear into the tubing, as the USPlastic site warns: "Care is recommended in the selection of fittings and clamps for Silcon...unlined metal clamps could tear into the wall"

I'm currently using an ear style clamp on the PEX:
http://www.micromatic.com/images/3/300x300/1317.jpg

I didn't know if a standard adjustable hose clamp would work okay for the silicone solution.

What are you using?

 
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Old 11-25-2009, 02:39 PM   #28
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I use standard clamps... I have never had a problem.

 
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Old 11-25-2009, 02:48 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colkrausen View Post
Excellent thread - just when I was looking for replacement tubing!

I am currently replacing PEX tubing with silicone. The PEX is opaque, and far too rigid to easily sanitize.

Those of you using the silicone tubing, what kind of clamps are you using to attach your fittings? I want to ensure that I don't tear into the tubing, as the USPlastic site warns: "Care is recommended in the selection of fittings and clamps for Silcon...unlined metal clamps could tear into the wall"

I'm currently using an ear style clamp on the PEX:
http://www.micromatic.com/images/3/300x300/1317.jpg

I didn't know if a standard adjustable hose clamp would work okay for the silicone solution.

What are you using?

I have been using worm clamps - although you are not supposed to.

Silicone tubing works much better with fewer, larger, barbs. This has to do with the properties of soft tubing. If you clamp too hard the tubing will likely actually lose contact with the barb fitting and you will have a leak. On top of that the tubing will squish out the worm drive clamp.

The trick is to use the right barb fitting in the first place. In many cases you won't even need to use a clamp. However, I DO use clamps and put a very very light torque on a worm clamp for good measure.
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:01 PM   #30
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To chime in late, I use the thermoplastic tubing from Northern brewer. I love the stiffness and the feel of the tubing. I prefer it to the silicone just for how well it holds shape and resists collapsing. Both are fantastic options. I have no need for translucency.

 
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