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02-13-2010, 01:29 AM   #101
skarude
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Jan 2009
PA
Posts: 117

I am a bit confused with your statement that I would draw less power with lower volts. The way I understand it to determine what the element will draw you divide its wattage by the voltage. So a 4500W element at 240V will draw 18.75A but the same element run at 212V will draw more like 21A. I could be wrong, but that is how I understand it.

I have some 10/3 cables so I may go with them and purchase some L6-30 plugs to replace the L5-30s that are on them. The 20A 240V cables I have are very nice with molded plugs so it would be nice to use them I am just afraid it will be a but more current than I should load them with.

02-13-2010, 02:09 AM   #102
skarude
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Jan 2009
PA
Posts: 117

Ok I answered my own question in this thread over here. Looks like the element rating goes down at a lower wattage so the draw would be lower too.

02-13-2010, 02:15 AM   #103
Mista_Sparkle
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Nov 2009
Sugar Grove, Illinois
Posts: 409
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well, a heating element is a resistive load. You are given a wattage rating at a specified voltage. from here you can determine the resistance of the element. The resistance is a constant, unlike the voltage, and therefore the amperage and wattage.
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02-13-2010, 03:53 AM   #104
BrewBeemer
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Feb 2006
small island paradise, the lost atoll
Posts: 3,500
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by CodeRage Personally, I would prefer a sing 240v 4 wire service instead of using two circuits.
A hell of a lot safer also coming from one power source.
People can get hurt when they pull power from different outlets, scares the hell out of me just thinking about this.
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02-16-2010, 02:20 PM   #105
TBLbrewer
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Aug 2008
N.E. Indiana
Posts: 204
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This is great info. I'm planning an all electric rig, and will reread this multiple times before wiring it.

03-12-2010, 03:38 AM   #106
CorgiBrew

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Mar 2010
Twin Cities, Land of 10k Lakes (count 'em!)
Posts: 118
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I know a lot of people run 2 hots, a neutral and a ground to their control panels, but then go 2 hots and a ground to their heater elements. Does a GFCI breaker do you any good with a short at the keggle end of things when you are wired this way? My electrician says no, which makes sense to me. Unless you are splitting your power to 240/120 somewhere along the way, is there any reason to run four wires to you control panel and use a GFCI breaker?

[I moved this question to a new thread: Heating Elements and GFCI]

03-20-2010, 12:57 AM   #107
beerocd
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Nov 2008
Posts: 697
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OK my turn. Temporary brewery relo into the garage where there is a 3 wire 240 home run to the panel. Can I branch a nearby ground? I have read about why not to borrow a neutral from a separate circuit, but grounds should never be energized except in a "situation". Would this be acceptable? It is 12ga and no more than a couple of feet away. I will need to use the green wire which is home run as the "white" I'll color code it with some fancy electrician tape.
Answer in any tone you'd like - so long as you're correct.
Thanks!

PS - I have the portable 240 GFCI cord off ebay; so safe there.
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05-02-2010, 11:02 AM   #108
fujieagle
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Aug 2009
usa
Posts: 208
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All I can really say is thanks for this thread and all the info.

05-22-2010, 03:17 PM   #109
pickles

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Feb 2008
Columbus
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If have am supplying 240v to a 5500 watt heating element in my RIMS with 10 AWG wire can I ground the elements "electrical box" enclosure to the keggle wall with 12 AWG or does it have to be the same gauge as the supply? I'm not potting my elements like others, but instead have modified a watertight aluminum electrical box to house the business end of the element.

05-22-2010, 05:29 PM   #110
CodeRage
Death by Magumba!

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Aug 2007
Melbourne, Fl
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Needs to be of the same gauge.
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