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Old 11-02-2009, 08:13 PM   #1
switched
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Aug 2009
Kenosha, wi
Posts: 32


Hey everybody. I've been working on this keezer build over the last week and so far all is going well. I do have a question regarding the beer line though, but first I will post the pics so the question makes a little more sense .

Collar built



Enclosure built and temporarily connected.



Picked up a little marble today. Have to make the counter piece still. Was just sizing it up here. (Will more than likely be going three tiles wide)



A top view of the keezer. I also am still working on the insulated box that will house the faucet/shank/beerline, but for now, I will use this dusty speaker monitor as a placeholder haha.



And the view from the side. This is where the problem arises.



Sooo. I am trying preserve the freezer used for this build and not destroy it by running the beer line through a hole in the top. I also had originally planned to run the line right through the collar in front, but decided it was at an awkward height to pour a pint. I am hoping to run it through the collar in the back, and into the insulated dispensing box on the counter.

If you look at the last picture, you can see where the temp controller line is running (which is right about where the beer line will be coming from) and that means there will be about 6-7 inches of exposed line. I have read people here using different cooling methods to run a line 10-30 feet, but with this short of a distance, is there really going to be a problem? I do plan on using some sort of insulation around the line that is exposed, will this be enough?

Let me know what you think!



..Okay, decided to take one last pic, of what I kind of envision this to amount to haha. (Minus tower holder, faucet, finished counter, driptray, etc, etc)





 
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:44 PM   #2
tmoney1224
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Dec 2007
Wichita, KS
Posts: 246
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by switched View Post
Hey everybody. I've been working on this keezer build over the last week and so far all is going well. I do have a question regarding the beer line though, but first I will post the pics so the question makes a little more sense .

Collar built



Enclosure built and temporarily connected.



Picked up a little marble today. Have to make the counter piece still. Was just sizing it up here. (Will more than likely be going three tiles wide)



A top view of the keezer. I also am still working on the insulated box that will house the faucet/shank/beerline, but for now, I will use this dusty speaker monitor as a placeholder haha.



And the view from the side. This is where the problem arises.



Sooo. I am trying preserve the freezer used for this build and not destroy it by running the beer line through a hole in the top. I also had originally planned to run the line right through the collar in front, but decided it was at an awkward height to pour a pint. I am hoping to run it through the collar in the back, and into the insulated dispensing box on the counter.

If you look at the last picture, you can see where the temp controller line is running (which is right about where the beer line will be coming from) and that means there will be about 6-7 inches of exposed line. I have read people here using different cooling methods to run a line 10-30 feet, but with this short of a distance, is there really going to be a problem? I do plan on using some sort of insulation around the line that is exposed, will this be enough?

Let me know what you think!



..Okay, decided to take one last pic, of what I kind of envision this to amount to haha. (Minus tower holder, faucet, finished counter, driptray, etc, etc)

In thread pics


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Old 11-02-2009, 08:45 PM   #3
CDbrews
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Aug 2009
MN
Posts: 345
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i like that stain it looks real nice... try it first an see if your beer is foaming or too warm an if it is build something to cool the lines

 
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:58 PM   #4
broadbill
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Aug 2007
Southern Maine
Posts: 3,910
Liked 524 Times on 352 Posts


Just an idea...could you also build a base that the unit would sit on? This way the collar will be a less awkward height? You could even put wheels on the base to roll it around.

Just a thought....

 
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:18 PM   #5
shortyjacobs
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Aug 2009
Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 2,509
Liked 33 Times on 33 Posts


You could use forced air and some tube. Run your beer lines inside one tube from the keezer to the tap, and run a second tube (empty), from the keezer to the tap, then rig up a fan to blow cold air through the second tube, (it will return through the first, cooling your lines).

On another note, and I may be totally wrong on this, but I thought the evap coils ran around the outside of a freezer's walls....which means that by building your wood frame tight to the freezer's walls, you are insulating where the freezer will be trying to dump heat. On other threads I've seen, they've built an air gap between the wood paneling and the freezer walls to allow for air flow......I hope I'm wrong and not being a debbie downer, cuz the keezer looks great!

 
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:47 PM   #6
switched
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Aug 2009
Kenosha, wi
Posts: 32

Thanks for the good responses and compliments guys. I think I may use every bit of your suggestions.

Broadbill, having it built up on wheels would be a good idea even if there is no problem, and would probably bring it up enough to prevent me from having to slouch to pour a beer.

I will most likely build this as shown in the pic and give it a try first like you mention CDb, it can't hurt too much, worst case lose a beer or two testing...

If it does foam, I like your idea shorty, seems like a simple and effective solution. As far as the coils go, yes, they are in the front I believe. There is also a panel on the side towards the back of the unit. There is a bit of space between my enclosure and the front so I'm hoping that there is enough room for the heat to dissapate. This thought has crossed my mind before. If I do any major temp changes I can easily remove the front panel, otherwise I think when the freezer kicks on every once and a while for a couple minutes it should be okay.

Thanks again guys. I'll post some pics when it is finished.

 
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:07 PM   #7
SowegaBrews
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Feb 2009
Knoxville, TN
Posts: 201
Liked 12 Times on 7 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by switched View Post
There is a bit of space between my enclosure and the front so I'm hoping that there is enough room for the heat to dissapate. This thought has crossed my mind before. If I do any major temp changes I can easily remove the front panel, otherwise I think when the freezer kicks on every once and a while for a couple minutes it should be okay.

Thanks again guys. I'll post some pics when it is finished.

First off, it's looking awesome! I'm jealous, this thing is way nicer than my fridge with a few taps sticking out the front.

Anyways... I'm no expert, but unless you're adding a way to remove heat and replace it with fresh air, by adding air space you're actually increasing the insulating power of that wood. It might be a negligible amount but never-the-less I wanted to put it out there.

 
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:33 PM   #8
switched
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Aug 2009
Kenosha, wi
Posts: 32

Thanks for the kind words and for the heads up! I purchased a rubbed bronze floor vent that closely matches the color of the stain and I plan on cutting a section of the wood out and replacing it with the vent. Not the best means of ventilation, but hopefully it will get the job done. Now if I can find a rubbed bronze faucet to match, that would tie it in nicely.



 
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