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Old 01-30-2012, 04:08 AM   #511
dcarter
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If someone started making these and selling them, they could make a lot of money! (be sure to let me know if you do)
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:21 AM   #512
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Originally Posted by D-Hutt View Post
I have one of these left over from an old aquarium - it should work, right?
Look at you using you using your "old aquarium stuff"!!!

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Old 01-30-2012, 11:09 AM   #513
s2cmpugh
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Originally Posted by phoenixs4r View Post
You applied silicon after the JB weld? If so the silicon may be drying first, and not allowing the JB weld to cure properly? Just a thought
I let the JB weld dry for about 4 days, tested it only to find it tripping the GFCI, and then added aquarium silicone around the threads on the reducer AND at the heating element.

I brewed with it on Saturday and it worked OK. No tripping of the GFCI and it brought my mash and sparge water up to the temp. I wanted.

I did see some bubbles come up around the threads where the reducer attaches to the pipe so maybe I"ll apply a tad more silicone to be safe.

Thanks for the help guys!

 
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #514
D-Hutt
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Originally Posted by davidr2340 View Post
Look at you using you using your "old aquarium stuff"!!!

Ha - I thought through what I might possibly need for this hobby when I broke down the tank. Turns out, not much.

 
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:28 PM   #515
ruralbrew
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I built a 2000 watt heatstick a couple months ago. I did a 90 degree stick with a "U" on the top to hang over the top of my kettle. I put a 20 amp plug on the heatsick, which I plug into a waterproof switch box that has a 20 amp GFCI outlet and switch. This has a regular 15 amp plug on it that I only plug into circuits that I know are rated for 20 amps. I have only used it once so far, but it worked like a charm. Once I got to a boil I could dial back the stove burner to Med Lo and had a very nice boil.
I wasn't real crazy about the way the nut held the element in the tube, so I found a stainless steel machine bushing of the approximate size. I had to enlarge the buching a bit to fit over the threads of the element and grind it down a bit to fit inside the nut but I feel the element is a lot more secure. It didn't take too much JB Weld to seal it up. I let it cure for about a week and then put it in a pail of water for a couple days. No leaking so I figured I was good to go.
It makes brewing in the winter a lot more user friendly than standing outside in a cold garage over a propane burner.

 
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:07 PM   #516
D-Hutt
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Just plugged mine in to test - we have heat! 3 seconds plugged in and out of water is apparently enough to almost burn you, lol. Didn't expect it to hear up so fast.

 
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:48 PM   #517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Hutt View Post
Just plugged mine in to test - we have heat! 3 seconds plugged in and out of water is apparently enough to almost burn you, lol. Didn't expect it to hear up so fast.
Not only will it heat up fast...it will burn, glow, and then go snap crackle pop bang, and never heat up again...never, never plug in dry!

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Old 01-30-2012, 06:01 PM   #518
D-Hutt
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Yeah but it didn't do that because I unplugged it after a couple seconds.

I'm a brewing noob but I'm not a moron.

 
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:14 PM   #519
bja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Hutt View Post
Just plugged mine in to test - we have heat! 3 seconds plugged in and out of water is apparently enough to almost burn you, lol. Didn't expect it to hear up so fast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Hutt View Post
Yeah but it didn't do that because I unplugged it after a couple seconds.

I'm a brewing noob but I'm not a moron.
Really?

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Old 01-30-2012, 06:20 PM   #520
D-Hutt
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I've learned that most NEVER EVER DO THIS rules aren't actually never do this rules. They're just good guidelines. I don't mind bending guidelines when I know the risks, i.e. plugging in a heatstick for 3 seconds to test the connections before I seal it all up.


 
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