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Old 10-19-2009, 01:20 AM   #1
jasonsbeer
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Default HLT Idea

I just put together a small electric HLT. There's nothing special about the HLT, its an Igloo "Picnic Basket" cooler that holds about 6 gals filled up. I have a 2000 watt 120v element in it.

But...

Previous posts here recommend ordering a 1" SS nut to attach the heating element. These things are big $$$. Bargain fittings has them for $8.25 + whatever shipping works out to. This is a little rich for my blood and I didn't want to wait.

I ran down to Menard's and picked up a 1" sweat to 1" FPT copper fitting. It was less than $5.00 with tax. You probably wouldn't have to, but I cut off the sweat end so I was basically left with a copper nut. Works great.

Just hoping to save some folks a little time and money.

-jason

EDIT: added photos HLT



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Old 10-19-2009, 01:33 AM   #2
The Pol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonsbeer View Post
I just put together a small electric HLT. There's nothing special about the HLT, its an Igloo "Picnic Basket" cooler that holds about 6 gals filled up. I have a 2000 watt 120v element in it.

But...

Previous posts here recommend ordering a 1" SS nut to attach the heating element. These things are big $$$. Bargain fittings has them for $8.25 + whatever shipping works out to. This is a little rich for my blood and I didn't want to wait.

I ran down to Menard's and picked up a 1" sweat to 1" FPT copper fitting. It was less than $5.00 with tax. You probably wouldn't have to, but I cut off the sweat end so I was basically left with a copper nut. Works great.

Just hoping to save some folks a little time and money.

-jason

EDIT: added photos HLT
People use the 1" nut, because it is straight thread, like the element. Pipe thread is tapered... so what you are using will not work in all applications, because after a number of turns, the threads will begin to cross thread. That is the reason for the 1" STRAIGHT thread nut. In some applications a pipe thread will simply not tighten the element suffciently


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Old 10-19-2009, 01:43 AM   #3
jasonsbeer
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
People use the 1" nut, because it is straight thread, like the element. Pipe thread is tapered... so what you are using will not work in all applications, because after a number of turns, the threads will begin to cross thread. That is the reason for the 1" STRAIGHT thread nut. In some applications a pipe thread will simply not tighten the element suffciently
The element is only attached to the inside wall of the cooler, which is pretty thin. Because of the taper, as you mentioned, I did snug the copper fitting with a wrench, but its far from being a problem. I think I could get another turn out of it.

If someone is concerned, they can test fit it first. If it won't work, take it back.
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:47 AM   #4
The Pol
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Glad it worked for you, I know a good number of ppl here have had issues trying to use taper threaded items to tighten thier elements.... and went to the straight thread. Just putting the disclaimer out there that they are two totally different threads and "may" not work as planned.
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