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Old 02-12-2012, 04:05 PM   #71
Finnagann
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In general the less sugar and the more dme u can use the better. You may want to add a second yeast packet if you replace all the sugar though. Some yeast nutrient is also a good idea either way.

And if you still find you're getting a "kit taste" you'll likely want to get some grain in there, you can make a very good beer with a partial mash.

Have fun brewing!


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Old 02-13-2012, 04:10 AM   #72
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Default muntons vs Coopers?

I read most of this thread, all 8 pages...one interesting thing I would add.
I used to brew Muntons Connisuers series of kits. I always added 1-3 lbs of DME and avoided sugar like the plague. I also boiled the whole thing for close to 60 minutes. I have since backed off of boiling kits for such a long time as the LME tends to carmalize easy and it makes just as good a beer IMO.
The thing that I remember is that the guy at the LHBS always gave me a packet of Coopers gold pack yeast because the Muntons pack would not handle the added fermentables. I thought this strange because Muntons was a fairly reputable brand I thought.
I have also brewed several Coopers kits and found the wheat and ales DO seem to taste a lot alike. The Muntons wheat however turned out really good....darker, crisp and heavy head, which I like in a wheat.
All in all, if you are brewing extracts you can't beat Coopers for the price, and as a base to build on, they lend well to personal innovation, which we all are familar with.


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Old 02-13-2012, 04:13 PM   #73
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First off,I want clarify that the Cooper's cans make 5 imperial gallons,which at 23L,equals 6.072 US Standard gallons. Keep that in mind when brewing/adjusting them.
I've been mixing cooper's cans with Munton's plain DME's since my 2nd brew. I came up with the formula of 1 Cooper's can,1) 3lb bag plain Munton's DME,& minimum of 2oz hops per batch. I brew them to 6 US gallons generally,& get from 5.3-5.9%. I used that formula with 6oz of hops in my BuckIPA,& it came out to 57c per bottle.
I think combining the cooper's cans with DME & hops to def be a good formula for some very good ales. But not all of the series cans use their ale yeast. That depends on the series & the beer involved.
But I haven't followed the Cooper's directions since my 2nd brew. Check out my recipes for ideas & my way of using them.
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:39 PM   #74
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I've never followed the directions, just mixed and matched "acknowledged truths of home brewing" I've found on here. I'm thinking I might try to make something per the recipe to see what the difference is.

If I'm just making a session beer, why go through the 3 weeks + 3 weeks scenario if I get something decent from 5-10 days +3 weeks, following what the hydro tells me of course.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:58 PM   #75
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It seems to depend on the gravity & color of the malts used as to how long it'll take to complete successfully. Lighter color & lower gravity tend to finish quicker. Darker colored ales take a bit longer to finish,& carb/condition. Fridge time goes up as well,ime.


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