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Old 09-18-2009, 11:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I used a standard metal bit and Spit to drill my ball valve hole in my Keggle. Just do it.
Yeah, the step bits are nice but not entirely necessary. I just bought the right-sized metal bit and went to town. The step bit doesn't make a better hole, it's not going to be any easier to use, it just means you only have to buy one bit for a variety of hole sizes for different projects. If you're buying a Harbor Freight bit that you're only expecting to last for one or two uses, what's the advantage of that?
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I used a standard metal bit and Spit to drill my ball valve hole in my Keggle. Just do it.
spit does make the best lubricant
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berserker_Brew View Post
spit does make the best lubricant
Well, depends on which hole you happen to be drilling. Certain applications require that you invest in a proper lubricant.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird View Post
Well, depends on which hole you happen to be drilling. Certain applications require that you invest in a proper lubricant.
depends whether or not you care for the integrity of the object to be drilled.





has the line been crossed?
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:29 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doubleb View Post
Its a economy SS pot.

All the more reason to just start drilling...you really gonna pay someone to drill a cheap / inexpensive pot??

 
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Old 09-19-2009, 01:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
If you have a dirty mind(like I do) the title of this thread is hilarious....
Somehow I knew I wouldn't be the first one to bring that up in this post...
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Old 09-19-2009, 03:48 PM   #27
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Sorry to break the bone yard genre that was going, but the OP mentioned his concern about bracing the kettle. I was drilling my newly acquired sankes yesterday and today and came up with a decent method that worked great...

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I rested it in a cooler. Make sure that the end you are drilling is OPPOSITE the end of cooler that has wheels (if your cooler has wheels)
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:48 PM   #28
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Squirt your long wet hose when drilling holes...

Err... Seriously - run your garden hose on the cutting site when drilling the kettle hole. Part of the problem with SS is that it work hardens very quickly - water prevents this. I drilled two keggles in no time flat with a cordless drill and HF step bit - ran water over the site and kept everything cool.
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:07 PM   #29
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The stuff came in today. I got to get over to the hardware store and pick up the parts. Hoping I can bust out the drill tomorrow or Monday. Will post results. Thanks for all the advise.
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:52 AM   #30
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Here is the wrap-up...

It is done. I went to my local Lowe's and got a Unibit and a titanium pilot bit. I ended up putting my knee inside the kettle and knelt on the kettle which was on the deck (not the best brace, but it worked). The hardest part was getting the drill to stay put to start the hole. My hole ended up a millimeter or two away from my mark which is fine w/ me. Once I got the hole started I just pressed hard and went really slow and sprayed Pam once in a while. Once I had the pilot hole the Unibit took care of the rest with ease. At one point I got to see some smoke and at that point I thought to myself, I'm glad I decided to do this myself. The Unibit was so easy to use.

Thank you all for the replies. I couldn't have done it with out your encouragement. Here's to many more holes I'll be drilling.
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