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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Fermentation & Yeast > Slanting yeast
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:08 AM   #281
el_caro
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I bought an 8Litre one and wow do we love it. Gets use every week for beautiful stews, soups, etc and I always have it on hand for yeast storage activities. One of the best homeware decisions I have ever made.


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Old 09-25-2011, 09:19 PM   #282
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New Brewer here, what is the benefit here, i.e money, yeast strains etc.?


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Old 09-26-2011, 12:13 AM   #283
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Money. By the time you step up to pitching amounts you have super fresh liquid yeast for about $3
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:41 AM   #284
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As above cheapest freshest yeast you can get. Can my wort left over from dead space mlt and kettle so the yeast is practically free after inital investment. Another benefit is no more dead yeast due to hot weather.

Clem
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:40 AM   #285
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Folks are heralding Fermcap-S (dimethylpolysiloxane) for reducing the foam on starters and primary fermentation for reducing boilovers in the BK.

Does anyone have experience with reducing boilover in the autoclave by using Fermcap? Also, does it "denature" during autoclave? Would it double-duty once in a starter?
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:59 PM   #286
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From my use of it (just starters) I think it would work in the autoclave, but yes, it appears to denature, even in the normal boil. i know if i add more DME to a starter after it has been boiling even with fermcap, it will boil over if i do not add more fermcap.

Wish i had more exact chemistry answers, but haven't looked anything up, just some observations from my use.

Edit: to clarify, i think it would do it's job in the autoclave, but not *necessarily* double duty in the starter. Would be interested to know, may have to try.
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Old 10-08-2011, 03:51 PM   #287
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if you have a boil over in a autoclave that is a seal issue. Fem cap will denature if you want to use the water for a starter you will need to add it. Though I do not see why you would. Unless your container is to small.
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Old 10-08-2011, 04:37 PM   #288
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i'm assuming he means to pressure cook jars of either wort or a mix of water and DME, so he has ready made sterile wort on hand. Though if that is the case then you don't need to boil it for a starter... so yeah, now i'm not sure the purpose. But canning jars allow hopefully just gas to escape the jars, but if it were to boil over then the wort could escape as well, the seal is not at fault, that is simply how it works, the lids are not supposed to be on so tight that material cannot escape or they will not work. In actually there may not be a boil over problem because the whole system is pressurized, but i have not pressuredcooked wort to know.
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Old 10-08-2011, 06:13 PM   #289
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From what i can find it looks like the fermcap/PDMS stays more or less at the interface of the wort/air, and is generally left behind when transferring the wort, due to sticking to surfaces or particles in the trub left behind. it may be when adding more dme to the mix the fermcap adheres to the dme particles and that disrupts its anti-foaming quailities. This may or may not be temporary if the particles of dme/pdms settle out or if they bind permanently and thus stop the anti-foam action.

So, there should not be any actual "denaturing" or chemical breakdown at the temperatures used for brewing, and if the wort is autoclaved and boiled in the same container without any transfers it may continue to work, or it may have had time to bind with other compounds in the beer and be useless.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:55 PM   #290
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If Sacc is still lurking this thread (or anyone else has tried it)...

Did you ever get around to culturing any Bug Blends? Agar/Dextrose media either by slants, or separating the strains on plates? If so, how did you make starters?


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