Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Automated HERMS system
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 09-02-2009, 08:28 PM   #101
Boerderij_Kabouter
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Boerderij_Kabouter's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
Posts: 8,467
Liked 136 Times on 111 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

That coil looks fine, but the stainless I linked above is 1/2" 50' for only $73.

That false bottom looks fine to me, I can't confirm that though. Maybe it is worth the chance???

Search Ebay for "Unibit" and buy one of the clearance priced Irwin step bits that comes up. You need a 7/8" hole size for weldless fittings. I drill a small pilot hole, then use the step bit lubed with vegi oil to 7/8" then touch up with a file to get a nice tight fit. That will greatly help with no leak connections.


Boerderij_Kabouter is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 03:47 PM   #102
blackheart
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 314
Liked 9 Times on 7 Posts

Default

Still trying to secure 10 SS valves.... the Diesel place only has 8 right now... in 12v... but have plenty in 120AC ... Anyone have an oppinion on 12vdc vs 120vac ?


__________________
Black Heart Brewery
blackheart is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 04:53 PM   #103
Acidjazz54
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sanford, NC, North Carolina
Posts: 149
Likes Given: 7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackheart View Post
Still trying to secure 10 SS valves.... the Diesel place only has 8 right now... in 12v... but have plenty in 120AC ... Anyone have an oppinion on 12vdc vs 120vac ?
I was personally leaning towards the 12V due to power usage (18 Watts vs 33 Watts) but I would be interested to see what other people say as well. The one down fall to 12V is you need some sort of power supply (which isn't a big deal especially at only 1.5A).
Acidjazz54 is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 04:54 PM   #104
Boerderij_Kabouter
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Boerderij_Kabouter's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
Posts: 8,467
Liked 136 Times on 111 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

I think it depends what kind of switched you are using. If you are using relays and 12v switches anyway, it would be easier to use 12v solenoids.
Boerderij_Kabouter is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 05:06 PM   #105
weirdboy
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 8,000
Liked 440 Times on 359 Posts
Likes Given: 63

Default

I really hate to beat a dead horse on this, but I still don't see how you're going to control the mash and sparge volumes without any flow meters, float sensors, etc. Maybe they're just not listed in the parts lists or diagrams, but if your goal really is to have this thing automated, you need to solve that problem I'd think.
weirdboy is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 05:09 PM   #106
Boerderij_Kabouter
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Boerderij_Kabouter's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
Posts: 8,467
Liked 136 Times on 111 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

He could use a pressure based volume sensor. That would be pretty easy.
Boerderij_Kabouter is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 06:51 PM   #107
blackheart
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 314
Liked 9 Times on 7 Posts

Default

I saw float sensors on MoreBeer. We plan on using them to control volume. So far we have only discussed 1/3 systems in the automated brewing system, the liquid side. There is also a gas and electronic component

The gas component is fairly strait forward once we have the right valves and burners. The electronic setup is also pretty easy, connect sensors (inputs) and motors/valves(outputs) to a micro controller/relays and start programing(the hard part)

The key is getting the mechanical system work and ready to program as much time will be spent making the system do what we want it to after it is assembled.

I was leaning towards 12v as it would be easy to do 12v with a simple relay. 120v means +10x more 120v SSR relays and heat sinks... that sounds a bit much to me... Here is a link to a huge picture of the overall parts of the system and a link to the same picture with parts colored in green which we have or have ordered....

Master

Master Checklist
__________________
Black Heart Brewery
blackheart is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 06:59 PM   #108
Boerderij_Kabouter
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Boerderij_Kabouter's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
Posts: 8,467
Liked 136 Times on 111 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

I think this might be up your ally....

Wort-O-Matic: The Liquid Level Doctor
Boerderij_Kabouter is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 07:49 PM   #109
beerthirty
big beers turn my gears
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
beerthirty's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Podunk, VA. Not far from the NC line.
Posts: 2,654
Liked 28 Times on 13 Posts

Default

Been a few days since I was here. Try Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com for your tubing needs. Depending on wall thickness and whether you chose seamed or not, their prices are hard to beat. For one time bending take your tube into Lowes and use a conduit bender. I told them my boss wanted to check the bending ability before buying.
For sparging water level use a float on an adjustable rod in the mash tun. A volume sensor can be used in the HLT for the sparging volume. 120 volt valves require less amperage(easier on the relays) to operate than 12 volt, but may need sheilding of the power wires to prevent noise and crosstalk. Sheilding to reduce noise and crosstalk is what I'm currently working on with my rig.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird View Post
"I've got a fever... and the only prescription is, MORE CARBOYS!"
primary- Tangerine Dream, SWMBO slayer,
serving- amber ale hop experiment #6, Roggenbier, apfelwine
planning- Cru?
conditioning- 9/9/09 barleywine
Drink water?... Never, fish fornicate in it.--- W.C. Fields
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of force.
beerthirty is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2009, 08:29 PM   #110
blackheart
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 314
Liked 9 Times on 7 Posts

Default

Cool, I just looked at the wort-o-matic. That seems pretty interesting.

Still debating the 12v vs 120v on the valves....

Just sent MoreBeer $200+ for a variety of parts, mostly the bulk head fittings. If you click the link above you can see the updated picture is nearly entirely green. Only 5 more pieces to go for the liquid, TC barbed fittings, Silicon tube, SS tube, False bottom, and the valves.

waiting to hear back from people on most of those things so I think we are moving forward with the rest of the design... going to try to source the electronic gas valves, fittings, and burners. I cant seem to find a NG burner thats not the torch tip. Anyone have a link?


__________________
Black Heart Brewery
blackheart is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to setup an electric HERMS system? HomerJ All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing 6 08-13-2011 12:57 AM
Building my HERMS System cmallon Brew Stands 5 07-13-2009 05:32 PM
non-automated HERMS kcinpdx Brew Stands 12 06-17-2009 05:02 PM
My new Herms system (pics) foppa78 Equipment/Sanitation 22 02-02-2008 07:30 PM
HERMS system on Craigslist Lost Pirate Equipment/Sanitation 2 08-28-2007 05:46 PM


Forum Jump

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS