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Old 03-28-2011, 03:43 PM   #491
iijakii
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Jun 2010
Portland-ish, OR
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Float switch?



 
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:46 PM   #492
IrregularPulse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iijakii View Post
Float switch?
To prevent the element from receiving power when water is below it. The switch is the first safety, but it would only take once to not pay attention to the switch when plugging in the box to ruin a brew day.


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Old 03-28-2011, 03:58 PM   #493
mschrock
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Sep 2009
Central Virginia, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse
Finally I have my control box finished. Tonight I get to make my cable for my float switch and then I am ready for autotuning the PID and calling the system ready (I think, I probably forgot something else). Here's the left side of my control box showing the element switch/outlet combo and my thermocouple and float switch disconnects.
I'm interested in hearing more about the float switch.

 
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:14 PM   #494
IrregularPulse
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It's just a switch that floats with liquid level. When the level is high enough it closes the switch. I wired it in series with the +lead going from the PID to the SSR. So if the PID sends the signal to the SSR to turn the element on, but the water level is below the element, it won't be able to turn the element on and burn it up in open air.
I bought this one.
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Old 04-02-2011, 09:37 PM   #495
jramirez126
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Mar 2011
San Diego, California
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I want to make the step from extract to AG brewing and looking for some advice. I've taken JKarp's CB20 idea (thank you JKarp!) and modified it in a way to be able to recirculate cold water from the MLT through a custom immersion chiller plumbed in the BK instead of using running water during the chill. I still want to use gravity to flow from the MLT to the BK and I only want one pump (Just like JKarp's). The only flaw that i have noticed is the hop stopper (made by theelectricbrewery.com) that i want to use to filter out liquid/hop trub after the boil. I'm afraid it will have an affect during the mash circulation. I would really like some feedback before i invest time and money into my idea. Sorry for the ghetto scanned pictures (ps the sight glass will not be mounted directly below the heating element mount, just a lack of drawing ability). Thanks in advance.






 
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:36 PM   #496
jkarp
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Jun 2008
Elizabeth, CO
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Only "problem" I can see is that's a lot of stuff to work around in the kettle come cleaning time. Unless you're doing whole hops, you probably don't even need the hop stopper.

 
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:23 AM   #497
jramirez126
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Mar 2011
San Diego, California
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Thanks JKarp! also, looking at the upgrades you made, did you go with a longer TC on that new tee fitting or are you still using a 4"?

 
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:08 AM   #498
jkarp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jramirez126 View Post
Thanks JKarp! also, looking at the upgrades you made, did you go with a longer TC on that new tee fitting or are you still using a 4"?
4". Longest liquid RTD Auber makes, as far as I know.

 
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Old 07-01-2011, 04:15 AM   #499
Oracle
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Jeff,

Thanks for the guide and personal attention to this long-running thread. I know you posted a "typical" brew day in a post many moons ago, but could you give a couple of recipe examples and walk through the process step-by-step? Folks new to brewing (like myself) would benefit, especially as we learn how to scale 5 gallon recipes down to 3 or 3.5 gallons.

I was inspired to put a system together based on your design and am very happy with it so far, but have only used it twice (once for an extract recipe and once for an all grain recipe). The latter was a challenge because I jumped the gun and bought the ingredients for a 5 gallon recipe (milled and mixed at the local store), so couldn't easily cut it down. Worked out pretty well anyway, I just had to add water as the boil proceeded to avoid over-filling my boiler/kettle.

Here are a few picks of my system:
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Old 07-01-2011, 04:10 PM   #500
Bonwit
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Nov 2010
Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 32

Yes, I too would like to read an update on your brew day and how you go about scaling recipes to 3.5 gal. I'm a new user of BeerTools and anxious to learn how it might help in this regard.

I've just about completed my control box and am awaiting arrival of my RTD sensor, having exchanged the original TC. BTW, Auber now sells a 4" RTD with a bulkhead fitting which will eliminate the need for a tee at the sight glass. In hindsight, I probably could have gone with the 2" RTD, since all of the probe will be in the kettle.

I also ordered the alarm light/buzzer that Auber sells. I'll add a small switch to that circuit to cancel the alarm signal.

Another change I'm considering is to lengthen the CF line by using a 6 gallon bucket. With our 80 F summer water temps here in Texas, I'll already be needing to pump ice water.

John

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oracle View Post
Jeff,

Thanks for the guide and personal attention to this long-running thread. I know you posted a "typical" brew day in a post many moons ago, but could you give a couple of recipe examples and walk through the process step-by-step? Folks new to brewing (like myself) would benefit, especially as we learn how to scale 5 gallon recipes down to 3 or 3.5 gallons.

I was inspired to put a system together based on your design and am very happy with it so far, but have only used it twice (once for an extract recipe and once for an all grain recipe). The latter was a challenge because I jumped the gun and bought the ingredients for a 5 gallon recipe (milled and mixed at the local store), so couldn't easily cut it down. Worked out pretty well anyway, I just had to add water as the boil proceeded to avoid over-filling my boiler/kettle.

Here are a few picks of my system:



 
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