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Old 09-20-2010, 07:55 PM   #411
timber_road
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Aug 2010
Newman, IL
Posts: 12

you are absolutely correct about my kitchen (most of the house for that matter)... 15A receptacles on 20A circuits, 12 guage wire. i'm still learning as i go with electricity. i guess the only question came to mind regarding the amps being pulled by the heating element exceeding the rating of the receptacle. if it's an allowed quirk then so be it. an electrician friend told me it would most likely not be an issue.

i am completely fascinated by this setup. i love brewing outside with my scaled down BIAB setup. i brew 2.5 gallon batches in a 6 gallon pot. however, brewing in my basement during the winter months would certainly be comfortable and would take out the element of mother nature. i have a second kitchen down there with plenty of space and 240v. heck, i even have a garden hose attachment down there.

this will be my first DIY homebrewing project. thanks to jkarp and the many others on this site for pointing me down the path!

also... i found a LWD 2000W/120V element here

but i dont understand what "resistored" stainless steel is or if in fact the outer sheath of Incology® 800 (whatever that is) would have an adverse affect on the wort.

 
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:08 PM   #412
timber_road
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Aug 2010
Newman, IL
Posts: 12

here is the correct link to the above heating element

 
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:31 PM   #413
jkarp
 
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Jun 2008
Elizabeth, CO
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Good find. I'd not seen a 2KW LWD before. I've been using a HWD Rheem resistor copper element with great success. I like that it's all copper exposed to the wort.

 
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:46 PM   #414
timber_road
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Aug 2010
Newman, IL
Posts: 12

yeah the LWD seems a tad pricey compared to the HWD models that are readily available in 2000W/120V... may just go with the HWD copper. if you've never had a scorching issue, thats good enough for me.

i feel the same way copper. from what i've read many heating elements are sheathed in some kind of alloy to resist oxidation in high temp environments as a way of strengthening the element and making it last longer.

 
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Old 10-27-2010, 01:12 AM   #415
dflipse
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Jun 2009
Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 43

I'm a huge fan of this idea, this thread, and others related to it. My preliminary plans are to go all-electric with two 2000W heating elements, but I realized that I'd be able to slightly modify my current system to try out the process.

I've got a 10 gallon brew pot, a 10 gallon cooler with false bottom, and a single pump. I typically do some variety of batch sparge. All I had to do was hook up the hoses in a different order and set my mash tun up on a bucket, and I'd replicated the Countertop Brutus setup (albeit with my heat still my usual combination of 1500W heat stick and gas stove).

I thought it went really well. Dropped my efficiency a little bit from my usual in the low 70s to 67%, but was easy and simple. I ran into one problem. As I started circulating, some grain ended up in the kettle. This wasn't surprising. The problem was that a non-trivial amount of it wanted to just float around, and not get drained out (to get pumped back to the top of the grain bed in the mash tun). I tried to let the water level in the kettle get lower, so the floaters would get sucked into the dip tube, but that just resulted in me losing pump function.

My solution was ultimately to stop the pump, dump the kettle contents onto the top of the grain bed, and then resume business as usual. From then on, we were golden. Really crystal clear wort.

I thought perhaps this was a one time problem, maybe related to the grain bill. (Recipe was a Leffe Blonde clone I found on HBT a while back.) Perhaps one of those grains is just particularly floaty. Going to give the method a few more tries before I commit to my next rig. Thanks again jkarp and everyone else.

 
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Old 10-27-2010, 12:22 PM   #416
jkarp
 
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Jun 2008
Elizabeth, CO
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Your mash tun have a copper / pvc manifold? I use a stainless braid so there's no way anything but flour-sized bits can get through and they recirculate easily. With a manifold, I'd suggest doing a normal vorlauf before beginning recirculation to get the grain bed set.

 
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:07 PM   #417
Kegcowboy
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Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dflipse View Post
I'm a huge fan of this idea, this thread, and others related to it. My preliminary plans are to go all-electric with two 2000W heating elements, but I realized that I'd be able to slightly modify my current system to try out the process.

I've got a 10 gallon brew pot, a 10 gallon cooler with false bottom, and a single pump. I typically do some variety of batch sparge. All I had to do was hook up the hoses in a different order and set my mash tun up on a bucket, and I'd replicated the Countertop Brutus setup (albeit with my heat still my usual combination of 1500W heat stick and gas stove).

I thought it went really well. Dropped my efficiency a little bit from my usual in the low 70s to 67%, but was easy and simple. I ran into one problem. As I started circulating, some grain ended up in the kettle. This wasn't surprising. The problem was that a non-trivial amount of it wanted to just float around, and not get drained out (to get pumped back to the top of the grain bed in the mash tun). I tried to let the water level in the kettle get lower, so the floaters would get sucked into the dip tube, but that just resulted in me losing pump function.

My solution was ultimately to stop the pump, dump the kettle contents onto the top of the grain bed, and then resume business as usual. From then on, we were golden. Really crystal clear wort.

I thought perhaps this was a one time problem, maybe related to the grain bill. (Recipe was a Leffe Blonde clone I found on HBT a while back.) Perhaps one of those grains is just particularly floaty. Going to give the method a few more tries before I commit to my next rig. Thanks again jkarp and everyone else.
We are noticing a big swing in electric brewing based on our element vs. burner sales. We have switched to a combonation element/ induction burner system ourselves.

 
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Old 10-27-2010, 10:55 PM   #418
Lonnie Mac
 
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Nov 2006
Bacliff, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dflipse View Post
I'm a huge fan of this idea, this thread, and others related to it. My preliminary plans are to go all-electric with two 2000W heating elements, but I realized that I'd be able to slightly modify my current system to try out the process.

I've got a 10 gallon brew pot, a 10 gallon cooler with false bottom, and a single pump. I typically do some variety of batch sparge. All I had to do was hook up the hoses in a different order and set my mash tun up on a bucket, and I'd replicated the Countertop Brutus setup (albeit with my heat still my usual combination of 1500W heat stick and gas stove).

I thought it went really well. Dropped my efficiency a little bit from my usual in the low 70s to 67%, but was easy and simple. I ran into one problem. As I started circulating, some grain ended up in the kettle. This wasn't surprising. The problem was that a non-trivial amount of it wanted to just float around, and not get drained out (to get pumped back to the top of the grain bed in the mash tun). I tried to let the water level in the kettle get lower, so the floaters would get sucked into the dip tube, but that just resulted in me losing pump function.

My solution was ultimately to stop the pump, dump the kettle contents onto the top of the grain bed, and then resume business as usual. From then on, we were golden. Really crystal clear wort.

I thought perhaps this was a one time problem, maybe related to the grain bill. (Recipe was a Leffe Blonde clone I found on HBT a while back.) Perhaps one of those grains is just particularly floaty. Going to give the method a few more tries before I commit to my next rig. Thanks again jkarp and everyone else.
In my original Brutus 2.0 design, I recirculate the pots back to themselves. This clears the wort crystal clear. Then I switch the lids when all has cleared.

Kegcowboy, I have been meaning to come see your shop. Several members from my brewclub (Mashtronauts) say it's real nice. I don't need much of nothing, but just to say hi, a beer, and maybe a refill...

Sorry for the
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Lonnie Mac...
President of the Brutus Ten cult!

 
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:10 PM   #419
dflipse
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Jun 2009
Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 43

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
Your mash tun have a copper / pvc manifold? I use a stainless braid so there's no way anything but flour-sized bits can get through and they recirculate easily. With a manifold, I'd suggest doing a normal vorlauf before beginning recirculation to get the grain bed set.
There's the problem. I actually have a full false bottom in my mash tun. I'd hoped the relatively small amount of grain would be able to circulate through the whole system, but my first try showed that doesn't work, at least the way my dip tube/boil kettle is set up. Going forward, then, I'd either switch to a stainless braid or just do a quick initial vorlauf like you said. Appreciate the info.

 
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:44 AM   #420
Kegcowboy
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Jun 2010
Posts: 2,683
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonnie Mac View Post
In my original Brutus 2.0 design, I recirculate the pots back to themselves. This clears the wort crystal clear. Then I switch the lids when all has cleared.

Kegcowboy, I have been meaning to come see your shop. Several members from my brewclub (Mashtronauts) say it's real nice. I don't need much of nothing, but just to say hi, a beer, and maybe a refill...

Sorry for the
Lonnie, It would be an honor to finally meet you in person. If you are able to give us some warning I'll make sure that I am there when you get there. It seems internet Christmas sales have already started with lots of wifes calling in for gift hints so..............don't be surprised if at certain times of the day if it looks more like a distrubition warehouse more than a homebrew equipment shop. -Jeff

 
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