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Old 07-04-2009, 06:26 AM   #1
ramz7887
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Take a look at this video please


The system is hooked up to the plumbing of the house and it will be circulating cold water through the chiller then out to the drain. The two pieces of copper you see will have 90 degree elbow joints with a quick disconnect sharkbite coupling incase I need to remove the chiller.

On the inside right/bottom there is a red cap. I was thinking to have a piece of copper come straight up and then connect to the cold side. Then cut the top part of the chiller to connect to the hot-out pipe on the left.

My questions/concerns is that the coil kinda bounces around a little and I was wondering how I coould add some ridigidity to it? Also I plan on leaving it in the keg during the boil. I was gonna add a hop bag during the boils so that they don't get all around the coils. Also I wanted to add a dip tube to the middle of the keg where the wort pools at the bottom

Thanks

 
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Old 07-04-2009, 11:05 AM   #2
HomebrewJeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz7887 View Post
Take a look at this video please

The system is hooked up to the plumbing of the house and it will be circulating cold water through the chiller then out to the drain. The two pieces of copper you see will have 90 degree elbow joints with a quick disconnect sharkbite coupling incase I need to remove the chiller.

On the inside right/bottom there is a red cap. I was thinking to have a piece of copper come straight up and then connect to the cold side. Then cut the top part of the chiller to connect to the hot-out pipe on the left.

My questions/concerns is that the coil kinda bounces around a little and I was wondering how I coould add some ridigidity to it? Also I plan on leaving it in the keg during the boil. I was gonna add a hop bag during the boils so that they don't get all around the coils. Also I wanted to add a dip tube to the middle of the keg where the wort pools at the bottom

Thanks
Are you going to making the hot / cold water connections through the wall of the keg? I suspect it's going to be a pain to clean if you can't remove it. Whats the reasoning for making it permanent instead of removable?

As far as stiffening it up, I would take some14 gauge electrical wire and wrap it around 5-6 coils at a time, in 3-4 spots, until you get up to the top. You can solder the wire to the tubing in a few spots if needed.

 
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:27 PM   #3
Catt22
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I predict that you will soon abandon the idea of keeping it in the kettle permanently. It's going to make it a major PIA to clean the kettle, among other things.

 
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:41 PM   #4
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I think you would also have to worry about galvanic reaction. You would have copper touching stainless in a acidic solution. Sounds like you would corrode your coil and start adding Cu ions into your brews.

Hmmm....Verdigrised Pale Ale...
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:50 PM   #5
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Cleaning is the biggest problem unless you don't mind using hot water and PBW after every brew. Even then, you'd want to scrub the beerstone off after every few batches.
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:40 PM   #6
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to answe your original question, try applying a few band ckamps. Dont clamp the whole coil up thogh, that might reduce your efficientcy(surface area)a little
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISLAGI View Post
I think you would also have to worry about galvanic reaction. You would have copper touching stainless in a acidic solution. Sounds like you would corrode your coil and start adding Cu ions into your brews.

Hmmm....Verdigrised Pale Ale...
Sounds like the beginnings of aaa ...a storage battery!

Extra Special Bitter Battery Beer

 
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Old 07-04-2009, 10:11 PM   #8
HomebrewJeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISLAGI View Post
I think you would also have to worry about galvanic reaction. You would have copper touching stainless in a acidic solution. Sounds like you would corrode your coil and start adding Cu ions into your brews.
Hmm.. I really don't think that would be a concern in this scenario? A normal immersion chiller sits on the bottom of the kettle when you are chilling. Also, most weldless fittings use a copper dip tube and a stainless steel washer. IIRC, adding copper to the wort is fine before fermentation, as the yeast will consume it. It's after the ferment is when you need to be careful.

 
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:35 AM   #9
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I considered this once too, and got about the same reaction. I thought it would be nice to have one less piece of brewing equipment to pull out, put away, and clutter up the room.

If I were to do it, I would probably mount the inlet and return through the handle portion of the kettle and use unions or compression fittings to make it easily removable for cleaning if needed. I still may do it one of these days.

Ooooo, crazy idea;
You could valve it so you could use your boil kettle as the heat exchanger for a Herms system. When you are done you just dump your BK contents for sparge water. After the boil, it doubles as a wort chiller. HERMS version of the brutus 20, kinda.
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:50 PM   #10
ramz7887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISLAGI View Post
I think you would also have to worry about galvanic reaction. You would have copper touching stainless in a acidic solution. Sounds like you would corrode your coil and start adding Cu ions into your brews.

Hmmm....Verdigrised Pale Ale...
I was wondering about that since people will put there chiller into the boil to help sanitize it. I figured why not have it in the whole time. I'm not gonna drill any more holes in the keg they will up straight up the top and make a 90 degree angle back to the return fittings.

 
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