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Old 07-02-2009, 05:28 AM   #1
Poindexter
 
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How fast do i have to go?

today I knocked out a mid weight brit ale since I got off work early. Second voyage of my new wort chiller.

At the end of boil I dumped a quart of refrigerated RO water into the kettle to stop the boil and lock down my hops. Then I whisked in my ME, covered and steeped for ten minutes.

Then I poured in an entire gallon of RO (2.5 gal boil) and started my wort chiller.

The end temp on my ME steep was 180, so good there. I wiped my chiller down with isopropyl with 15 minutes left in the boil, so that should be OK.

Between the reefer RO and the chiller my wort was under 140 12 minutes after the end of boil and down to 89F at 20 minutes after end of boil.

I whirled it up real good and waited five minutes, but really all the trub and hot break and pellet hops and cold break is in my fermenter.

How long do I really need to wait on the whirlpool ?

I am maybe obsessing, but that window from end of boil to sealed, pitched fermenter gives me the heebie-jeebies.

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P



 
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:31 AM   #2
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I am kinda wall-eyed about boiling the chiller, coating it with sugary goodness and then taking it out of the kettle while I whisk in the *ME too.



 
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:21 AM   #3
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Your wort chiller seems to be slightly undersized to me. Mine is a DIY using 50' of 1/2" tubing and pulls 6 gallons of wort from 212F to 70F in 7 minutes and I'm betting my tap water temperature isn't quite as cool as yours.

One fantastic sanitation acid test that I read about here is siphoning the first 12 oz of wort to an empty and sanitized coke bottle. The idea is to time how long it takes to pressurize due to wild yeast or bacteria starting fermentation. Over 72 hours is considered quite good and less than 24 indicates a serious sanitation problem which could yield defects in the finished beer.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:44 AM   #4
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Undersized? really? I got from 180F at T +10 minutes to 140F at T +12 minutes, 2 minute delta. I am recirculating with a 155 gph pond pump out of a sink of ice water through 20 feet of 3/8" copper tuning.

I guess I could use more ice in the sink, but I am getting a metric ****ton of cold break with it and under the 140mark well inside the 20 minute window. I forget what it is that can develop above 140F, i wanna say DMS but it doesn't sound right.

I am thinking about going with a shorter Pasteurization steep on the *ME, but getting that quart of refrigerated RO on the bottom of the kettle (ahead of the *ME) has really helped lighten my color and I am sort of used to where the hop flavor/ aroma ends up.

I'll try the sanitation test on my next batch.

Thanks.

 
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:06 PM   #5
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My chiller takes about 25-30 minutes and the whirlpool another 15. Most beers you can see when the trub has centralized and settled.
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:37 PM   #6
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A plug for paint strainer bags here. I can have the wort chilled in 8 minutes and within 2 more minutes, have the wort in the fermenter, pull out the strainer bag, take a gravity reading, pitch yeast and put the cover on. Flame out to cover on = 10-11 minutes.

 
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:46 PM   #7
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After I reach my desired cooled temp. (70-75F) in my boil kettle I'll do a whirlpool & wait 25-30 min. for settling. By then all the crud is at the bottom. Nothing is running or chilling during the settling time and the wort is already cooled. It usually takes me about 30-40 min. to cool, then another 25-30 min. to settle.

 
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poindexter View Post
How fast do i have to go?

I am maybe obsessing, but that window from end of boil to sealed, pitched fermenter gives me the heebie-jeebies.

TIA4Y2c,
P
IMHO you are obsessing. Ideally you want to chill and pitch as fast as possible to thwart any undesirables taking hold of your wort.

I feel that as long as the kettle is kept sanitary post boil, you are fine for a fair period of time.

Sometimes during a late night session, if my wort is not at pitching temps, say 75 - 100, I will just leave the kettle in an ice bath for the night, w/ the cover on of course, and pitch the following morning.

Single stage ferment for 10 - 14 days, then I am usually kegged and kept cold till the keg blows. If it were something that I was looking to bottle and cellar age, perhaps I would have more concern.

I think a couple three hours is reasonable from boil to pitch if your practice is sound.

As Charlie said, "Nothing ruins beer faster than worrying", RDWHAHB

edit...additionally, I think you would save some time if you ran the wort chiller prior to diluting w/ the chilled top off water. Chillers remove heat much more effficiently the greater the temp difference is from tap to wort.


 
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poindexter View Post
At the end of boil I dumped a quart of refrigerated RO water into the kettle to stop the boil and lock down my hops. Then I whisked in my ME, covered and steeped for ten minutes.
I would worry less about the chill time, and more about errant bugs in your beer. It sounds like you steeped grains AFTER your boil. Gran can carry all kinds of wild yeast and bacteria. You want to steep grains, then boil. 180F would kill some of the bugs, but perhaps not all.

Hopefully, I misunderstood what you're doing. Sounds like you got the chill part down though. It takes me about 1/2 hour to chill 4.5 gallons of wort from 200 to about 100. Then I add a gallon of chilled water (pre-boiled or store-bought). I might suggest adding the water at the end. Easier to take heat out of 4 gallons than 5.
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Old 07-02-2009, 04:59 PM   #10
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You could always do no chill.

I think there is way too much emphasis on cooling the wort quickly, I think it only came from people wanting to get done faster. There is cold break but alot of people dump that in the fermentor anyway. I just let the wort take it's times with the IC I use and it's cool when it's cool. Sometimes I stir if I'm in a rush.



 
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